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Perfect Grampians weather 19.6.2004 |
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21-Jun-2004 5:09:01 PM
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It was so very pleasant in the grampians on the weekend. I have no idea why others didn't join us in the delights of aqua climbing.
Five hours of gossiping, mud driving and kangaroo dodging got us to the misty Mt Fox carpark late on Saturday afternoon. Jacqui decided to learn how to pleasure herself (by reading Cosmo) whilst Kent and myself slogged up the hill to fix a couple of dodgy bolts. The weather held up ok with only light hail and near freezing temperatures. As darkness approached we abandoned the rock and scampered back to the car. As the rain began again we decided to test the 4WD ability of the Forester with a night time jaunt into the backblocks of the Victoria Range's fireroads. In strict scientific fashion we tested the clearance, cornering, braking, water crossing ability and five point turn on a muddy hill. We then retired to the delights of the secret humpy - deep in the water laden woods. Jac proceeded to dress in seven layers to ward off the balmy Victorian winter night whilst my attempts to light a fire were thwarted by the endless precipitation. We retired early to our prospective sleeping quarters.
We awoke to a glorious day of stunning thick mist. It even rained a little to get us into the mood for today's adventure to the 'rain proof' Gallery. 45 minutes of pure one hundred percent humidity later - we arrived in the cave. What a view! - we could hardly see the top of the cliff as it towered into the mist a massive 15m away. Two blokes from Portland had already established camp on the 'eminently lapable' Chain of Fools. The rock was glistening with moisture and the reality soon set in that this was going to be a fine days climbing. Kent managed to weasel his way onto Ramon's rope and slimed and slapped his way up Chain of Fools. The sloper match on the chalk pasted finish was MEGA classic. It was now my moment to shine - Chasn the Shadow would go down for sure. I roped up and bouldered through the opening move - the explosive power of the lower crux was heard with a loud 'pop' as my left ring finger detached itself from its tendon. The pain was light as I could hardly feel my hands from the warmth of the rock. I continued onwards even though the punters were screaming at me to lower off and not injure myself further. It was this try or nothing I thought as I weaved my way up the wall to the fifth bolt. At this stage my hands were numb to the wrists and my co-ordination was starting to fade. A small throw and my lump of ice hand failed to attach itself to the rock. Down I went - a dejected sight indeed. The mist continued to encroach on the wall and Monkey Puzzle soon turned into a waterfall. I waited keenly, hoping for it to ice up. Sadly the three degrees temperature separating it from a mixed frozen classic and a saturated sport route never came. Everyone continued to throw laps up Chain of Fools and all found the crux to be a chalky paste sloper at the finish. Ramon and partner racked up more than 20 ascents between them in the space of two hours.
Kent left us as he had decided to go bolt a new line near the Tower - which is a further 15 mins wet bush bash from the Gallery. He had all the kit - drill, glue, static rope etc. He gallantly marched off into the rain to do the work whilst were climbing at the Gallery. After a couple of useless hours of attempted climbing we all stopped for lunch - and I discovered Kent had left his harness behind! Fearing the worst Kent tantrum I had ever seen I ran down the hill to find him. The walk felt like a drive through a car wash. The bushes scrapped away the dirt and the endless rain rinsed me off good and proper. I finally found Kent; he had created a tape harness from some old bits of tat and was hanging wet and bedraggled off the end of his rap rope. Apparently the drill didn't work as it was so cold the batteries had pretty much frozen solid. He was now attempting to clean some dirt out of a waterfilled 'crack' route. We could only laugh. The pain of the harness was nothing compared to the joys of climbing in Victoria during winter.
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21-Jun-2004 6:05:31 PM
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Nice one Neil, sounds like you lot had a great time. Once again redefining the word 'keen'.
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22-Jun-2004 10:38:28 AM
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wish i could have been there.
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22-Jun-2004 12:27:55 PM
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awaiting some stellar photos neil!
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22-Jun-2004 12:45:42 PM
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Is there a word for sado-masichism type climbing? You guys are into pain right?
(... hate wet ropes climbing, but consider it par for the course caving ....)
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22-Jun-2004 4:57:26 PM
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Classic trip report. ;))
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22-Jun-2004 6:27:43 PM
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Hows the finger monty?
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22-Jun-2004 6:37:16 PM
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vedy vedy sore. No crimping for me for a few weeks. Might have to go back to steep thugfests again. I blame that darn white/black pocketed roof route at Altona's lead wall.
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23-Jun-2004 4:22:52 PM
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Neil, Very ironic that just last week when we were chatting about your ever diligent warmup (NOT)... You were saying youd never had an injury... Do you think you will start to warm up a bit from now on?
Phil
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23-Jun-2004 4:47:26 PM
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no chance sonny boy - warm-ups are for losers.
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23-Jun-2004 6:56:24 PM
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That's right. That's why only cool people get injured.
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23-Jun-2004 7:16:41 PM
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wow! i must be the coolest then - i injure myself all the time!
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23-Jun-2004 9:23:09 PM
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also ironic that i was talking to neil about the popping sound of a snapped tendon on our last trip to the gramps
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24-Jun-2004 10:38:45 AM
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One of the best trip reports I've read for a while. Excellent effort!
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