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Gramps 9th-11th 2003

phil_nev

12-Feb-2003
6:35:53 PM

On sunday night Heath, Merium, Lou and myself headed to the gramps for some roped action. After my last trip which involved 4 days of bouldering, i was keen to climb.

First day was spent at Bundaleer, which is quickly becoming one of my favorite places to climb. To start the day, Lou and i did Frog. A really nice 2 star grade 16. The first two pitches were nice, however the third was dissapointing as the rock quality was not all that great. I led all three pitches and spent quite a bit of time showing Lou a few things as shes just getting into leading trad. Meanwhile, merium and heath just bouldered and scoped out some othert lines in the area, heath was keen for manic depresive (25), but after touching the start holds he decided against it. Ive done the stand on tree version at about grade 23 cleanly, but cant figure out the knee bar start, which is really annoying, it just feels weird. It may help if i saw someone else do it. Any takers????

After lunch, heath and i decided to have a crack at Angular Perspective (27). This climb has been on my tick list pretty much since i started climbing. I wasnt sure how id do, but things actualy went alright. Heath and i both got stuck just near the first bolt, then i figured a better sequence and managed to climb cleanly to the seccond bolt, which is apparently the crux. Needless to say, i was physched with that. The only problem was there was a bail biner on the seccond bolt, and i didnt feel strong enough to take that of clip the draw then the rope of a hold that wasnt all that great. The dyno dosnt look too bad as i have a bit of height to help me out. I think this is a very doable route for me as it really is just an extended boulder problem. I cant wait to get back.

With sore fingers we retreated to the pub for some well earned food and beer... Not nessesarily in that order.

Next day we decided to check out the wall of china. This nice little area is sittuated right next to the walking track to the pinnicle, so needless to say, there were tourists galore. I started of the day by teaching merium how to lead belay with Lou's expert help. She picked it up quite well. I then led Little Bourke Street Direct, a really nice face climb which i found really interesting, steep and enjoyable. Merium Secconded with a few rests. Meanwhile Heath and Lou were having a shot at a really nice 22 called Sprung. Id previously onsighted this, not remebering how pumpy it was. The climb would be much nicer if the holds wernt so bloody sharp. Heath and Lou soon conceded defeat and we all had some lunch.

I had a breif attempt at a 23 called blue sky mining. It says in the guide that a hold may have broken off making this climb much harder than 23, lets just say the move involves hangin of an average left hand crmp and highsteping with you right to a sloper right next to your hand, thenstanding right up and launching to a sloping crimp with you right, then a balancy crank to a good hold. There was no chance id pull that move today so i quickly lowered off. I then led a nice 17 called checkpoint charlie. I found this much easier than the 15 i had done earlier on in the day, merium secconded the route cleanly. Lou also followed up at reccord speed, it seemed like 2 mins after she was on belay she was at the top.

Well that was our trip, not much got done, but it was just nice to get away, i can still enjoy myself even if im just realxing with freinds, just one of the reasons the gramps is such an awesome place. As usual im mega keen to get up there again asap, but as uni starts soon, it may be a little longer than i would like... im sure we all know the feeling.

phil.

Joe

12-Feb-2003
9:20:30 PM

Hey Phil... just some beta on the start of manic. Don't use the kneebar, it is awkward, painful and puts your body in the wrong position. Easiest way is just to pull on to the two crimps and throw for the jug...

alrob

12-Feb-2003
9:42:51 PM

Phil...did you have to jump for the start? it's not that high! :p

phil_nev

13-Feb-2003
3:22:29 AM

Phil...did you have to jump for the start? it's not that high! :p

Jump for the start of what, manic?? Ive only tried it once, i just launched off the cairn and grabbed the jug. I climbed the rest clean, it's just the start thats a pain. Have you done it al??

Thanks for the bete joe.

joemor

13-Feb-2003
4:33:22 PM

sounds like another cool trip.....

give me a yell when your next heading up as i want a crack at blimp!

joe

alrob

13-Feb-2003
7:33:32 PM

i did the jump start...yeah, fairly easy. Didn't climb it though, didn't have any of my shit. We were there to check out some of the fabled 'gritstone like' boulders with our english coach. His eyes lit up when he read that in the guide book.

ps. i was joking dude bout the jumo. i found it easy probably cos i'm 6'3"!

phil_nev

13-Feb-2003
10:19:04 PM

Yeah the jump starts not that bad, but its still not the real start. Thats what shits me.

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