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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Topic Date User
The Ravine 18.10.08 22-Oct-2008 At 9:59:47 PM MichaelOR
Message
BETA WARNING: Felonies Under the Radar* 11m 24 The Guardhouse
Adam says:
"There is a trick to this move which makes it a lot easier you just need to work it out, and it's not a dyno I did it pritty much static!
Its all in the feet!"
Adam, you know me .... not much inclination to jump or dyno! Always looking for a technical solution.
I had my L foot on the most left hold, and back-stepped my R foot up very high onto the highest hold/crimp (body facing L). Then I moved my R hand statically towards the hold in this side on position. Hard to maintain body tension as the L hand is quite poor and the feet are both pretty high. It's a long move. Steve couldn't touch the hold at all. As I said above, I could hit the hold consistently, almost statically, but couldn't hold it.
Could it be your superior strength, reach and contact strength is the "trick"? My bouldering and power are both pretty solid, so it is very surprising to be caught out by a 24 crux!
Has anyone else been able to pull this move?
Is there another approach?
Michael (very weak boy!)


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