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Sweatin in the gramps

phil_nev

12-Dec-2003
3:05:10 AM

On monday morning kezza, kent, al and myself headed to the gramps for a little climbing and relaxing..... We arrived at red rocks at about 2pm. The extreeme heat and abundance of prickles made the walk in rather uncomfortable for all.....

First up, kent led Conflict of interest (21) to warm up. Al quickly flashed the route shortly after.... Not without taking some skin off with the belly flop mantle. In the mean time i led the new route Height of darkness (15) which kezza secconded. A reasonable route with lots of pockets.

Kent then racked up for the lead of Variance (24). A jump start for a jug, then a mantle, followed by some delicate travers moves to a good rest, then more delicate traversin, a few roof moves and a little crimping arete hugging and kent topped out for the onsight. Leaving the gear in for later ascents he lowered off. A great effort by the Rock technician himself.....

We then all headed up to Marina's trench. Id fallen of the seccond last move of spinal tap (23) last trip so i was keen to tick. The route went quite easily on my first go. Kent made a repeat ascent, and in its original style he ran out of draws and had to slip the chains with a threaded RP. Silly boy. Al then jumped on, a few falls later he tops out proclaiming it a wicked route. After a brief rest Al had another burn, but came unstuck at the threde RP final clip. A wicked effort by the young spaniard. Next up it was kezza, two attempts yieled an almost clean ascent, the reachy crux proved to be a problem. Next time Gidget....

Back at Red Rock pinacle, I tied in for an attempt at variance. The start went well, i almost came unstuk on the first traverse when in a double gaston position, my only foothold broke. Lucky for my huge lats i managed to beefcake through to the good pocket. Anyways, i suprised myself and managed to flash the route. What an amazing route on great rock (minus the broken foothold). Next up, i talked al into the lead. The young gollum lookalike climbed well though the lower section falling maybe two moves shy of the victory jugs on his flash attempt. Ohhh soo close.....

Kent then decided he hadnt done enough a tied in for a no fuss onsight of Fat fingered freak (23). It must be the $2 cake of the week he devouired before the tick....... Have you seen the LATS on this guy???

Kezza and I finished the day by running up conflict of interest at sunset. We reached the car at almost 10:30 pm, what a great day.

Next day saw us head to VD land. Upon arival, kent as usual was bounding with energy and racked up for an attempt at janes addiction (24). The wall was blistering in the sun and kent had a bit of trouble with all the slopes. A few dogs and some wicked sunburn and he topped out. By the time kent got back to the bivi cave i was asleep. Shortly after, sam, rod, justin, james and lochi arrived.

It was a sight that would have made that little elf monty proud.... * climbers sitting in a cave talkin about non climbing related topics for about 3 hours. Eventualy, the casualties dragged thier arses out of the cave. Terminal insomnia revieved ascents by everyone except Al (the big softy) or as james said, a gangly carson kresly from queer eye..... Of not was Kezza's lead of terminal. Her First ever outdoor lead, done with two falls. A great effort by the lil pumpkin.

Al did manage to climb something. Two attempts at dela soul (26) resulted in an ascent with 3 rests.I punished myself further on dela soul by doggin it twice. Still cant do better than one fall. Kent ticked Janes addiction with ease once it was in the shade, Sam flashed it as well. Other ascnets, included the pretty boys tick of janes addiction, and cosmic phsyco. Kent also ticked the link up of the two routes on his seccond shot.

Well i think thats it..... A great trip with some Hot weather and lots of ticks.
Cheers,

The Crew:
Phil (the forman) nevile
Kent (media slut) paterson
Al (stretch) robinson
Kerryn (stumpy) rhodes

joemor

12-Dec-2003
10:45:39 AM

Nice report... sounds like hard sends all round!

Rich

12-Dec-2003
11:10:30 AM

yeh nice report Phil, what is this tho? :-O
>he ran out of draws and had to slip the chains with a threaded RP.
i don't get it.. i must be missing something

>Silly boy.

alrob

12-Dec-2003
11:50:54 AM

On 12/12/2003 phil_nev wrote:
>or as james said, a gangly carson kresly from queer eye

i still don't see the connection to carson.....is it the dashing good looks, the impecible fashion sense..........

HM33

12-Dec-2003
11:58:53 AM

is james, james S-B from bogong?

phil_nev

12-Dec-2003
12:41:00 PM

Yep, James squashed bannana.......

Rich,
On kents onsight of this route he didnt take enough draws and had to clip the final bolt and chains with single biners. The little hobbit did it again only all he had this time was an RP which he threaded through the anchor and clipped..... hehe

phil_nev

12-Dec-2003
12:43:12 PM

James squished banana also flashed cosmic physco..... I missed that ascent in the report....

HM33

12-Dec-2003
1:09:16 PM

isn't it scott-noboner

Rich

12-Dec-2003
5:32:30 PM

oh i dunno phil i still don't get why you would involve an rp with chains. y not just clip the chains and rope with the one biner if that was all.. hmm oh well

phil_nev

13-Dec-2003
1:57:57 PM

Your funny rich......

You dont actualy believe me do you..... Im just giving kent crap for his 'fast and lite' attitudes towards climbing....

Were are a bunch of wimpy sport climbers at the moment, were not placing much gear at all, let alone RP's.... :)

Phil

Roberto

16-Dec-2003
2:22:45 PM

hey forman, i hear the pretty boy did chasin the shadow. is this true??
when you goin out next cos i wanna go bush with you

phil_nev

16-Dec-2003
6:20:42 PM

Yep, the prettyu boy cranked to glorry on chassin..... If only hed stop brushing his hair mid crux he would be on a rampage..........
:)

joemor

16-Dec-2003
7:17:38 PM

gimme a call next time you power haus's are headin out! i want in on the rampage or global domination!

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