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Grampians 21st-22nd of October

phil_nev

23-Oct-2003
11:22:59 AM

Knowing very well that i have exams coming up, i wanted to get away for a bit of R'n'R just to clear my head. Personally, i find it very hard to study when all im thinking about is climbing. So on tuesday morning, Myself, Ross Taylor, Bob Morely and Alicia Davis headed to the gramps.

By the time we got to ballarat it was pouring rain. Thw weather did not look at all promising. Upon reaching halls gap, it was still pouring rain. We considered our wet weather options and decided to head to the Gallery.

First of, ross and i wrmed up on chain of fools (23). Its been a while since of been on this route, i remember it being much harder than it actualy is..... A little enduance training helps. Next, bob jumped on, this was his seccond outdoor climb EVER. He did very well pulling all the moves on TR.

Next up Ross jumped on Weaveworld, i was amazed to find out that he had never done the TOTALLY CLASSIC arete finish. He climbed well to the ledge on the arete when it started to hail. Needless to say he backed off.

Next i jumped on two tribes (24). I climbed very well and managed to tick it first go giving me my hardest ever onsight. Ross then made me feel better anout my onsight by effortlesly dancing up two tribes.Ross then had another go at weaveworld. This time the rain held off long enough for him to finish the route. Ross thereby declaring it the best 23 in australia. I would have to agree.

Bob then decided to lead chain of fools. His first outdoor lead. He climbed exceptionaly well falling only once near the last bolt. Bob tryed again once more but failed to tick. An impressive effort nonthe less.

To finish the fay i jumped on Hueco Dreamin (25). I had played on this route once before a long time ago. I climbed well on my first go falling on the last hard move (crux). After a brief rest i jumped back on for a clean ascent. This final move of this route is very very cool.

Next day we warmed up onoverkill (17) before heading to VD land. I had one thing on my mind, a clean ascent of De la Soul (26). First try i just worked the moves and put the draws on. On my seccond attempt i climbed very smoothly through the crux and upper bouldery section. However, much to my dismay, my seccond and third attempts resulted in falling from the seccond last move. OHHH so close. Very happy with my progress it will go next time for sure.

Meanwhile bob and ross were on the mega pumpy terminal insomni (22). Ross climbed very clean and static as usual. Bob had similar experiance to that he had on chain of fools falling in only one spot. Another great effort. To finish the day ross raced up cosmic physco (24). This route looks awesome.

We will be back (Delasoul is mine!!!!)]

That was our trip.

Cheers, Phil

(removed)

23-Oct-2003
11:44:02 AM

BETA ALERT: If you do the really high right drop knee on Hueco Dreaming's last move, it makes the whole thing no harder than Chain of Fools (possible easier because it's shorter). Malcolm must have missed this on the FA, as have many other repeat ascentionists

Hey, does anyone ever do Texas Nightmare ? I never tried but heard it was desperate for 25.

phil_nev

23-Oct-2003
11:52:28 AM

I tried the drop knee on my first attempt and found it a bit awkward. I just had left on the crimp, right on the jug, right foot in the scoop and just crank of the left hand to the final jug. Maybee harder but still pretty easy for 25. Does anyone else think that the seccond clip on Hueco is a bit scary??? Or am i just a wus....

I looked at Texas Nightmare, looks really goot. I was thinking about playing on it next time

Phil

nmonteith

23-Oct-2003
11:54:48 AM

"it will go next time for sure" - spoken in stilted german ascent??

(removed)

23-Oct-2003
12:18:06 PM

Might be a flexibility thing with the drop-knee.

Clipping: Might be just a wuss. If you parm up against the roofy thing, you can stand there for hours, drilling a new bolt hole if necessary.

joemor

24-Oct-2003
2:58:42 PM

sounds like a good trip!!

when u heading up next phil????

phil_nev

24-Oct-2003
4:14:57 PM

After exams i will be making a number of short (2-3 day) trips up there, probably during the early weekdays. There quite a few things i have unfinished business with.....

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