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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Buffalo Daze

climbau
16-Oct-2003
5:34:21 PM
Date:11/10/03, Saturday.

Mission: Meet A5iswheritsat inYackandanda at 7a.m for a day of fun up the Buff.

Challenges: 1) Attend Oktoberfest celebrations at uni bar the night before and still be on time .
2) Be in fit state to climb after said celebrations.
3) Drag lazy ass up climbs.
4) Be skid-mark free at end of day.

Challenges met:1) was on time!
2) was in fit state, despite neighbour arriving home at 4a.m and cranking up her stereo so she could strangle a cat to the dolcett tones of Matchbox 20.
3) Motivation was high, memories of past glories came flooding back.
4) No skiddies, although came close on the first climb of the day!

Mission Status: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.

Details: After meeting A5ISWHEREITSAT (Rod) at Yack, we motored on up to the Buff and promptly arrived at the Castle. As we pulled into the parking area I began to wonder if this was the day to make my climbing come-back. Ice encrusted puddles and snow at the start of the walk made think that crampons may have been more appropriate.

I was wrong, we wandered up to the Castle and checked out a few sights along the way.

The decision was made that I should lead Corner and Crack (13), a lovely offwidth corner crack slab with the honour of being dubbed "Not Very Pleasant" in the guide.
After a near trouser filling experience I must disagree with the guidebook. I found the climb to be quite pleasant and a heap of fun to boot!

We then traversed across and set up Rums Are Doodle (20) as a top-rope.
What a great climb!!! I highly reccomend everyone get on this classic. However I'm sure it would be quite a committing lead as the top section feels very insecure. Rod had a rather psychadellic experience on this due to a new pair of specs. (By the way, there are two shiny new carrots [not glue-ins] on this climb).

We're not really sure where the day went but somewhere between these two climbs and chatting about gear, aid-climbing and climbing in general, we found ourselves looking down the barrel of 2p.m. So we decided to head around to the chalet to jump on Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase (16).
However the lure of the Gorge proved too great. Rod took me for a sight seeing journey around Burstons Crevasse and he pointed out many fine lines and a few shorter lines on the south rim, which have now become short-term projects of mine.
About 3:45 saw us at the hanglider ramp and rapping into Banana Blase. We toproped out, and again I was amazed at the quality of climbing at Mt Buffalo. Banana Blase has to be the finest flake-slab climb I have ever done. Can't wait to get out there and lead it.

By the time we did Blase, it was getting cold and the light was fading. So at about 5:30 we headed back to Yack with eager discussion of more climbing at Mt Buffalo.

For those who haven't been climbing at Buffalo, take it from me, it is everything you ever wanted in a climbing area. Beautiful scenery, cracks, slabs, faces, flakes, grades,aid, free,-- it has it all.

Thanks Rod, for showing me Mt Buffalo, I'll definately be back for more!

Andrew



IdratherbeclimbingM9
17-Oct-2003
11:57:56 AM
Glad you enjoyed the day, & I too look forward to 'many happy returns'.
It was fairly laid back / casual, as we were both simply pleased to be touching rock again.
We went to the Castle area to escape the sneaky (& very chilly) minor breeze, as that location is a sun-trap often out of the wind on those kind of days, with a bit of variety within a small area ...

Minor edit to your (unexpected) trip report; ...
We did 'Butterflies are Doodle' Gd 21, (though I shamelessly pulled on the 2nd bolt in order to drag my unfit carcass up it, ... thereby reducing my grade for the day to about 19 for it?).
Climau is right; (psychadellic experience) ... don't get old if you can avoid it!, as bifocal glasses take some getting used to if you have never climbed with glasses before.

HM33
17-Oct-2003
12:08:46 PM
nice TR.

good to see you have final reached buffalo!

steve

Paulie
7-Nov-2003
11:41:15 PM
Classic route that one...good TR, glad to hear you loved the Mount, it truly is a special place :)

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