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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Mt Buffalo 4th Oct 06

Paulie
4-Oct-2006
10:41:54 PM
Lovely day today on the mountain, perfect climbing weather with temps around 18degC, zero cloud, a stiff breeze and no flies - got to love Buffalo in Spring!

There is hardly any seepage so the routes we did were all bone dry. I would imagine that even Beowulf would be dry right now.

Did the following routes:

Bananna Blase (16) in the Gorge Rim near the hanglider ramp - Probably the most popular route on the mtn due to the super easy approach, excellent pro, nice moves and the fact that it's a grade 16.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53977
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53978

The grade 21 slab route that Bob Cowan put up next to Bananna Blase - Superb and quite sustained slabbing on positive but well spaced edges and smears. I found the start to be slightly necky due to a poor cam in a flared crack - possibly could be better with a tri-cam. Still, a really great route and despite it's close proximity to BB it offers completely independent climbing. Would be more difficult in summer grease conditions I reckon.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53979
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53980
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53981

"This is not our Land" (19) at the Dreamworld - Great wall climbing on a humungous dyke feature with an exciting finish for onsighters! Noticed 2 new bolt holes at the topout - are these for a new belay spot? The old chains could probably do with replacing!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53982

The grade 17 route that goes diagonally up the centre of the wall in the Dreamworld offers superb wall climbing on huge yet well spaced holds. Despite many comments there is loads of bomber pro on this route if you look for it, though I will admit that it's probably not one for folk who have limited trad experience and are climbing at this grade.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53983

Also did that steep dyke/slab/arete route (21/22 - height dependent) on the left arete (name escapes me sorry) at the Dreamworld and were going to do Sultan (Cathedral) but ran out of time.

Was a fantastic day and my recommendation is to get up there this weekend or as son as possible while this weather is just simply perfect for friction climbing.

Paulie

Safer Cliffs Vic
5-Oct-2006
9:01:53 AM
On 4/10/2006 Paulie wrote:
>Noticed
>2 new bolt holes at the topout - are these for a new belay spot?

We aren't reponsible for those drill holes.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Oct-2006
12:57:45 PM
>got to love Buffalo in Spring!
Total agreement from me.
Some good shots in there Paulie. I'd like to rip off a couple for my screen saver if you and Ports are OK with that?

Did some recce up there recently as a pleasant day out on the m/bike and have my eye on a couple of new lines to do now after scoping the Nth Wall.
~> Just need to enthuse a couple of closet aid persons (outside of my recce partner) for action soon!

>We aren't reponsible for those drill holes
There was some discussion (initiated by MB if I recall correctly) on this site a fair while ago about the possibility of someone remedying that surprise topout for the grade.
Seems that someone decided to start but now has some unfinished business up there. Good to know it is presently unfinished as it lessens the surprise / enables one to carry extra gear / rope etc to cope.
Last time I did it I think I recall there being one bolt up there, but maybe I anchored back to an adjoining topout?
As it stands it is ye olde fashioned waist belay whilst sitting, territory ?
James
5-Oct-2006
1:00:48 PM
what's so suprising about the top out on This is Not Our Land? there are massive jugs on the lip - best top-out you can have!! the 1st part of the climb is bold (spaced bolts), but the climbing is easy.


nmonteith
5-Oct-2006
1:04:51 PM
There is a proper rap chain on the summit of that block isn't there?
dalai
5-Oct-2006
1:12:03 PM
From Buffalo update

Does this answer the top anchor question?

Dreamworld (Starts on page 168):
Disheveled (Page 170) has 3 bolts, not 2 (as on the topo and in the text).
There is an extra (Belay) bolt in Two Old Plonkers at the start.
Gondwanaland is incorrectly located on the photo topo. It is actually on a stand alone boulder around 20m or so southwest
of Peace is Quiet.
There is a rap station on top of Peace is Quiet that is not shown on the topo

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Oct-2006
1:12:53 PM
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=7466

You are right James.
This is the original message (above link) that I was referring to.

I obviously mixed up the surprise of 'good pro' (not !) on Buffalo Soldier with Mikes comments about belaying above This is Not Our Land.

Good to see my memory is not totally shot though, because I did remember the original post (even if I confused the issue/s) !

Paulie
5-Oct-2006
2:38:12 PM
On 5/10/2006 dalai wrote:
>Does this answer the top anchor question?

No it doesn't mate. There is a chain on top currently which is adequate though not ideal. The holes are on top of TINOL.

James, If you don't know about the 'hidden hold' on TINOL then it can be 'suprisingly difficult' for the grade when onsighting. IMO it's not run out at any stage - I think that it's very well protected actually. You're right about the top out though, jug city.

Rod - ok to use photos for wallpaper stuff. Rick took some awesome shots of which I have about 100!!!! The ones online are just a couple drop me an email if you want hi-res ones. Oh yeah and he's super keen to get on the end of a haulbag with you too ;)

Paul

kieranl
5-Oct-2006
3:45:34 PM
The diagonal 17 up the middle of the wall as pictured is "Dead Heart". Buffalo Soldiers is a direct variant on Dead Heart.

nmonteith
5-Oct-2006
4:30:17 PM
That wall has way too many routes. Consolidation required! 4 routes - max.
WM
5-Oct-2006
5:45:41 PM
Bob Cowan's route next to Banana Blase is "Banana Milkshakes Rule" which he gave 23. Repeat ascents indicate it's probably 22 at most - what did you think of the grade Paulie?

Paulie
5-Oct-2006
6:41:37 PM
OMG, Bob actually overgraded something!!!!!!!!!!!

That's an easy one to grade, solid and sustained 21 for sure, it doesn't have the desperateness (is that a word?) of a 22 or the easy nature of a 20.

Give it what you will I guess, it's a really nice route either way.

Paul
WM
5-Oct-2006
8:50:45 PM
if you want more normal Cowan grades check out silver shadow ("Home James direct") 22 (ha ha). did both on the same day and couldn't believe the disparity in grading

Paulie
5-Oct-2006
11:22:53 PM
Haven't done Silver Shadow (yet), but if it's anything like HJ then it's bound for classic status - is it harder or easier than 22?

I was suprised to hear he'd initially given BMR 23. Bob is probably the best slab and crack climber I've ever climbed with and he would normally just walk up a 23 slab. Maybe he wore his approach shoes on the 1st ascent?

Paul

nmonteith
6-Oct-2006
9:36:56 AM
I found that route to be a bit contrived in places. Perhaps Bob did it very direct and didn't dabble across
to some of the more inviting stances next to Banana Blase?
WM
9-Oct-2006
6:20:30 PM
>Haven't done Silver Shadow (yet), but if it's anything like HJ then it's bound for classic status

yep, very similar in quality, 1-2 stars

>- is it harder or easier than 22?

polished slab above the HJ traverse is maybe 21-22, headwall seemed about 2 grades harder so its probably bang on Cowan 22 :). I suspect I missed something at the overlap but I definitely had a hard time of it, straight after having no prob with BMR.

>I was suprised to hear he'd initially given BMR 23.

Ditto - that's how it appeared in the 2000 update - maybe there was a transcription error somewhere along the way

Paulie
12-Oct-2006
5:02:45 PM
On 6/10/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>I found that route to be a bit contrived in places. Perhaps Bob did it
>very direct and didn't dabble across
>to some of the more inviting stances next to Banana Blase?

I stayed left left left (hence the sketchy runout before the 2nd bolt) and found it to be a very independent line.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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