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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Buffalo 24/9 (no pics sorry)

gordoste
25-Sep-2005
11:45:39 PM
Dan and I have been hanging out for a chance to get on the rock so as soon as we saw Saturday looked OK we decided to head up to Buffalo for the day. Turns out the weather couldn't have been much better!!

After a quick stop in Myrtleford to buy lunch and grab a coffee we headed up the mountain but our plans to climb The Pintle and have a go on Peroxide Blonde had to be adjusted when we found the Horn access road was closed. So we decided to head down to the Gorge carpark and try to find Beowulf (18) and What Ethics? (15). Anyone who's climbed at Buffalo will tell you that finding climbs can be tricky but we didn't have major problems and Dan was soon preparing to lead What Ethics?. This is a nice little crack going two-thirds of the way up the middle of a low-angle slab, and just where the crack runs out there's a bolt (actually two bolts right next to each other, an old and a new one). It's only about 8 or 10m but definitely worth doing due to the quality of the crack. Myself not being well-versed in the dark art of crack climbing, found it puzzling enough to be glad not to be leading!

While we prepared for What Ethics? we had been looking at Beowulf and although it was clearly wet at the top, and looked pretty hard for 18, the line just looked too good not to set a top rope on and have a crack (groan). Anyway, after setting an anchor off the handy tree at the top, I managed to haul myself up to the bulge which is the first crux and exclaim "I think I understand what these handjam things are now" before taking a nice big swing out past the arete :) Getting back on wasn't happening and I was too pumped to try again straight away so Dan took over and managed better, getting through the pumpy layback section to the no-hands rest about halfway up. By now he could tell it was way too slimy and wet to be doable but he got some good beta and now has the climb on his Buffalo ticklist (to be done before moving to WA in November). I had another go and did a little better than my last effort, then we nicked off for lunch.

Afternoon we rapped in to and toproped Home James, which was very wet at the bottom. I always enjoy this climb and this was no exception, despite the dampness. Last time I had done the climb via an arete variant which was awkward and to the right of the obvious line. However this time I managed to pull through the crux move without much trouble. The one thing that stops me from leading this climb is the distance between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The crux has to be protected with trad gear or you'd cop a long fall (probably to the belay ledge). Maybe after a few more trips I'll be confident enough to try it.

By the time that was done it was 3 o'clock and we couldn't think of anything to do in the time remaining so we headed home early. It was definitely a satisfying day, even though I didn't lead anything. I learnt a little bit more about how to climb cracks (I have a lot to learn!!), I spent a beautiful day looking out over the Gorge, it wasn't super-cold even when the sun was hiding, and I started to remember just how much friction you get on those slabs.

Hopefully we'll get back up there in the next couple of weeks, weather permitting ;)

(oh btw you can probably tell I don't climb very hard, but I certainly enjoy doing it!)

climbau
26-Sep-2005
8:56:44 AM
Nice TR Stephen. It certainly was a prime Buffalo day on Saturday!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26-Sep-2005
10:35:41 AM
Good TR gordoste.
When I read you were going to try Beowulf I thought to myself; 'that is ambitious early in the season' due to seepage. Sometimes it does not dry out all summer, but towards the end of most summers it is in good shape.
That snow-gum belay at the top is starting to look ordinary. Particularly since the 2003 fires. I back things up in that area ...

>enjoy doing it
Yep, that's what it is all about.

dan
26-Sep-2005
11:12:02 AM
Crack climbing is the way, nice handjam rests (this is the section named the 1st crus above), the layback off Beowulf is beautiful and despite the slime I was able to get a good 6m through it due to a good R foot jam and by praying to the idol of mank climbing. If I thought it would make a difference I would go back with a couple of dozen tea towels and a wire brush.

Can anyone recomend some simmilar cracks up there? (preferably without the seepage issue). I am getting keener and keener to nail Angels now, I just need some endurance and someone to dupe into seconding me :)

The Snowgum is well rooted and very green, the branch overhanging Beowulf is easily half a meter in circumference, and there was no sign of seperation from the trunk. I had no issue using this as a sole anchor. If that had come off it would have pulled any hexes I set in the boulders below it.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26-Sep-2005
11:47:23 AM
>recomend some simmilar cracks
'Wicked Solitaire' Gd 18.
Lift Girls Lament Gd 21/22?
... are both in the Oval area.
There is also a good crack (about Gd 15?) on the back (higher) side of Commander Cody block. Can't remember its name at present, but it is described 'good training for Angels' in the guide.

I have used worse anchors than the snowgum; but I am wary of trees dropping limbs, and this one has a dead heart lower down its trunk.

nmonteith
26-Sep-2005
12:22:48 PM
On 26/09/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>There is also a good crack (about Gd 15?) on the back (higher) side of
>Commander Cody block. Can't remember its name at present, but it is described
>'good training for Angels' in the guide.

Devilled Cream 64m 15
Hideous trench warfare...

Richard
26-Sep-2005
1:13:07 PM
On 25/09/2005 gordoste wrote:
>Anyone who's climbed at Buffalo will tell you
>that finding climbs can be tricky but ...

**warning gratuitous plug **

Well, the new VCC guide book is coming out *soon* (before the end of the year).

See here for a teaser of the new topos: [1.8 MB file]

http://www.vicclimb.org.au/pages/news.html#cnews

Cheers, Richard

gordoste
26-Sep-2005
1:29:59 PM
I have to say the new guidebook exceeds all my expectations!!! I looks absolutely bloody fantastic!!

dan
26-Sep-2005
5:30:36 PM
What will we do if the routes to all the Crags and climbs are clearly set out? It would reduce walk in times by 1/2 a hour to most unvisited crags. It would entirely change the aesthetic of the place!

Hey I just checked out the advertising rates for $300 I can sponsor the opening night of the new guide. How would one buffalo aficionado get an invite to said event?

gordoste
26-Sep-2005
6:10:32 PM
The VCC website says "To launch the new guide, the VCC will be holding a special function featuring a prominant climber as a guest speaker, and where the guide will be availabe to VCC members at the members discounted price. Stay tuned for full details!".

No invite needed since I know you're a good little VCC member :)

Paulie
26-Sep-2005
10:52:55 PM
For cracks I would say get on "The Initiation (18)" and also "Wicked Solitaire (hardest 17 in the world IMO)" - which makes you jamb!

Beowulf is awesome but very strenous for an 18 - need to commit to the upper finger crack.

See you in 3 weeks!

Paul
kieranl
26-Sep-2005
11:24:03 PM
Richard,
The teaser has a quote in the description of "Ring-a-ding-ding" from "Louis Shepherd". I hope you've got someone like Noddy to do a final proof-read on this.
jgoding
27-Sep-2005
8:14:01 AM
Good Morning All,

Thanks for noticing that. This has been picked up (along with a heap of other errors).

We are in the process of revising the 1st round of proof reading, there will be one (final) edit to be done before publication.

The proof readers to date include Bob Cowan, Will Monks, Ben Wright, Simon Mentz, John Schwarzfeger (sorry if I can't spell!) and a heap more. Kevin Lindorff is reviewing all edited material before passing it on to the designer.

Anyone with any suggestions for the guide or editing notes please feel free to use this e-mail (which will reach us all): buffaloguide@vicclimb.org.au

It is the last chance to get any of your new routes published in this guide!

Take care,


Josef

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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