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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

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Arapiles Anzacs and the return to Black Ians

shiltz
28-Apr-2003
11:52:13 AM
Joined the hordes at Arapiles for Anzac Day. I haven't been up there for a couple of years and haven't experienced an Arapiles long weekend for long time. If the Pines is the inner city then we were camped in Cranbourne (the far side of the Northern Camp Ground). I didn't even know it was an official camping area until this weekend. I thought there was just the Pines and the Gums. The only people who camped in the bush down below the Gums were amorous couples wanting to escape the riff-raff in the main camping areas.
On Friday morning we escaped to the Far Northern Group. I lead Entertainer (18), something I tried to do a couple of years ago only to get rained on mid-way up (leading to a soggy retreat). It really is a classic for the grade, a fact not lost on my companions who all wanted to second it. Following this we struggled up onto Hum Terrace where I did Hum (16) and Affinity (16) with Katie and Turi, whilst Pete lead Vandal (17) with Jeff. I was planning to do Down and Out (20) but I wasn't feeling to fresh by that stage. Plus the size of the audience gave me stage fright.
Saturday was a waste of time. Pete, Jeff and I went around to Campbell's Kingdom. A bush bash led to lichen covered rock and we only managed one climb (a 2 pitch grade 17) for the day. To make matters worse I didn't take my shoes up and had to tackle the descent path in bare feet. A day best forgotten.
On Sunday I made it back to Black Ians and had a great day. Did Subpoena (solid 17) and found the bee-hive still active but easily avoided by stepping out left. Had to make a few jams in the mid section when the walls either side got a bit smooth. Katie and Kylie both seconded it without too much drama.
Objection Sustained (18) is well worth the 3 stars, is easier than it looks, and required no real jamming. Further left I did Chancery Lane (18) which requires some genuine jamming in the first 3-4 metres before going back to bridging, then up through the exit hole.
Prosecutor (18) is a more challenging prospect for the jam averse. You could avoid the jams at the first bulge by climbing the arete but not so with the second bulge which required a series of genuine hand jams with just adequate feet.
Pete and I finished the day by top-roping Law and Order (23) just to the left of Subpoena. It took a while to work out the sequence and was fairly balancy through the crux. A very good day in all capped off with a Beaufort Special and the way home.

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