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TR:The 31-Jan-2016 At 10:38:49 AM simey

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Great blog. Good to read detailed reports about these mega-classics.

The original route on the Candlestick (up the chimneys) is also worthwhile. I'm not surprised you swam to the incorrect route given the guidebook has such poor (or totally wrong) descriptions to the Candlestick. The original route doesn't have bolt anchors at its base (and they are not required as there are good natural anchors to rig the rope).

I haven't done the final pitch of the The Candlestick as we ran out of time, but it sounds like you tyroleaned from the recommended spot (we tyroleaned from there as well). I agree with you that the tyrolean is quite involved.

Haven't done Talk is Cheap, but I am keen to do it. Interesting to get your overall perspective. Sounds like it needs an additional bolt at the crux on the second pitch. That section sounds like it really detracts in its current form.

Look forward to reading more of your adventures on some of the great climbs in the country.

PS. Good effort onsighting the Totem Pole.