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Ozy last weekend of Nov 2015

lightfoot

2-Sep-2015
2:43:31 PM

Hi folks, not trying to establish a booking service or dibs but thought I'd let others know there will be a slow party (me & Co) on ozzy 27& 28 Nov. Anyone else planning same dates?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

2-Sep-2015
4:10:08 PM

On 2/09/2015 lightfoot wrote:
>Hi folks, not trying to establish a booking service or dibs but thought
>I'd let others know there will be a slow party (me & Co) on ozzy 27& 28
>Nov. Anyone else planning same dates?

Your question is in Trip Reports, are you dibbing a TR slot?
Heh, heh, heh.

The 2015 Buffalo Aidfest is proposed for the weekend Sat 21 & Sun 22 November.
There are two posts elsewhere on Chocky alluding to this date but it isn't 'confirmed' yet, just 99% likely in the absence of significant opposition!
Sometimes people stay on to do further routes, but my guess is that Ozy would be vacant for your nominated Fri/Sat dates of the following w/end.
☺

lightfoot

2-Sep-2015
6:43:22 PM

Haha can it be moved to the correct subforum? General discussion? But yes I will give a tr when done I promise.
Cheers I would've loved to come to aid fest but can only swing these dates with work.

kieranl

2-Sep-2015
8:45:50 PM

lightfoot

2-Sep-2015
9:43:10 PM

Does being slow witted count?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

3-Sep-2015
7:29:56 AM

On 2/09/2015 kieranl wrote:
>On 2/09/2015 lightfoot wrote:
>>Hi folks, not trying to establish a booking service or dibs but thought I'd let others know there will be a slow party (me & Co) on ozzy 27&28 Nov. Anyone else planning same dates?
>You might need to throw in another bivvy or two if you want to claim a slow ascent :)

The proposed lightfoot slow ascent attempt is up against tough competition and will be doing well to break the Slowest Ascent of Ozymandias Direct record, which was set 16 years ago by myself and a climbing mate...

Note for any would be contenders; to break the record your ascent must be continuous, as failed attempts with later returns don't count.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

3-Sep-2015
7:35:35 AM

On 2/09/2015 lightfoot wrote:
>Haha can it be moved to the correct subforum? General discussion? But yes
>I will give a tr when done I promise.
>Cheers I would've loved to come to aid fest but can only swing these dates
>with work.

Why have it moved since you are going to do a Trip Report anyway?
~> Just post the TR to this thread that you've created already ;-)
☺

simone

3-Sep-2015
8:34:07 AM

On 3/09/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The proposed lightfoot slow ascent attempt is up against tough competition
>and will be doing well to break the Slowest Ascent of Ozymandias Direct
>record, which was set 16 years ago by myself and a climbing mate...
>
>Note for any would be contenders; to break the record your ascent must
>be continuous, as failed attempts with later returns don't count.

Oh goody , another guessing game.
I guess 4 days.
What's the prize?
Let me guess , a rusty piton? a bar of soap?
Will there be a suitable has been MC to present the prize?
Let me guess , simey?


phillipivan

3-Sep-2015
9:29:18 AM

I hope you cleaned all the booty off the route whilst setting the record M9.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

3-Sep-2015
3:04:59 PM

@ simone (stujay?)
>4 days
Nah. Longer than that...

>a rusty piton? & MC/simey
I can do the piton thing (as I refuse to do the dropped soap thing ☻), and you will have to speak to simey about his availability for such an auspicious event...

@ pi
>booty
Yes, I cleaned almost all the booty off it during that ascent, though left one already fixed (and well thrashed) thumbnail size nut, in the main roof, due it deserved another life after catching a fall I took even though it already had rusted & broken cable wires.
My second mistakenly cleaned one of the original fixed pitons that I had clipped, off the climb while following on a night pitch, so the overall tally turned out square!
;-)


Duang Daunk

3-Sep-2015
7:05:28 PM

Ay M9; 5 and a half days bro.
You drink whiskey right?
If it was Edweirdo I couldn't even begin to guess, as I am not even half sure what a suitable martini to metres height gain ratio is for him.
simey couldn't get up it these days (even on aid), due to having a depleted stipend (that's what bouldering will do to you), so the question of how long he'd take isn't even relevant.

grangrump

4-Sep-2015
10:09:51 AM

On 3/09/2015 Duang Daunk wrote:
>simey couldn't get up it these days ... that's what bouldering will do to you
just tell him it's a sit start


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Sep-2015
11:07:35 AM

On 3/09/2015 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Ay M9; 5 and a half days bro.

No.
Longer...


phillipivan

8-Sep-2015
11:12:37 AM

I'm guessing the approach took at least two days if you were taking enough food and water. Sounds miserable.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Sep-2015
11:40:37 AM

On 8/09/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>I'm guessing the approach took at least two days if you were taking enough food and water. Sounds miserable.

No. We descended and started the climb on day one.

Many Ozy ascentionists become well smitten by it and return for more, with some like John Fantini having made at least half a dozen ascents.
I dare say that my mate and I have spent as much (or more) time on it, in one single sojourn, than many of those 'collective' ascents!
... & no, not miserable at all, just a different kind of fun.
~> Keep your single day ascents up on it and you will eventually spend as much time there too...
Heh, heh, heh.


phillipivan

8-Sep-2015
11:45:22 AM

I have no doubt that if I climb it another four times the cumulative time will be considerably less than yours.

Be assured the primary motivation for me trying to climb it quickly is laziness.


phillipivan

8-Sep-2015
1:30:02 PM

Also, like, what the heck do you do with most of your time if you are climbing one to two pitches a day? I'm kinda confused.

gfdonc

8-Sep-2015
3:32:03 PM

On 8/09/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Also, like, what the heck do you do with most of your time if you are climbing
>one to two pitches a day? I'm kinda confused.

ha ha.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=2&MessageID=1374&Replies=25


phillipivan

8-Sep-2015
4:15:16 PM

As far as I can tell you made two critical errors. You started much too late, and, Im guessing, you started well slept. Serves you right.

But seriously; even when crippling dehydrated on Ozi with Huw, I don't think we took over 2, perhaps 2.5 Hours on a pitch. Im trying to do the maths in my head, which means its probably wrong. I know we started wasting alot more time at belays, and then took a nap. Miguel75, self described 'big-wall theorist' when peer-pressured on to the horrifically dirty bottom pitches of LG was faster than that (which just goes to show that a bit of bullying can be a force for good in this world).

Part of me fundamentally doesn't understand why it is often so damn slow. Also, I don't want to ever have to poop on a wall, ok.

post edit: I hope Im not berating or belittling anyone, Im not trying to. If you like climbing slow, swell. But It's so far from my experience of what aid climbing is like, and how long it takes that it seems really odd.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Sep-2015
8:19:43 PM

On 8/09/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Also, like, what the heck do you do with most of your time if you are climbing one to two pitches a day? I'm kinda confused.

We went generally to just have fun camping in a vertical environment, and deliberately test ourselves mentally and physically by being in that environment for an extended period.

It had the benefits of me being able to make every protection placement a work of art and for my mate to learn aid-climbing while actually doing it. He came away with a thorough knowledge of jumaring, cleaning and hauling as well as a bit of leading aid; most of which he had never done before.

We enjoyed an ambience of the place that we didn't realise was there, finding much joy in the ever changing scenery ranging from close detail lichen formation, to far off clouds framed by fantastic rock architecture. It has many moods depending on weather conditions (both good and bad), the light at varying times of day/night etc.
We came away realising that we actually had to spend a long time there to fully appreciate it, and we consider it a well earned joy that the effort involved to achieve was worth doing.

Having time on our hands also helped in dealing with the inevitable clusterjams that wall climbing often entails, no matter if the ascent is slow or fast.
Heh, heh, heh.

The enduring thing that comes to my mind first after the intervening years, apart from the camaraderie, is the mental effort involved staying 'safe' in that environment for such a long duration...

Post edit;
>If you like climbing slow, swell. But It's so far from my experience of what aid climbing is like, and how long it takes that it seems really odd.

... Yes, I am probably odd, but then again I am replying to a 'number two nut', am I (k)not?
;-)

There are 29 messages in this topic.