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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Best Routes for first time Buffalo Climber 23-Dec-2008 At 8:17:44 PM jgoding

Message

Hi there,

I've put together a list of what I feel are the best routes at Buffalo for the first timer to the area. I've
slanted the selection towards the routes being easy to find and well protected, as well as being plain
old good fun.

This list can be downloaded along with a bunch of corrections and new routes to the current Buffalo
guide via the VCC's website: http://www.vicclimb.org.au/Site/index.php?location=publications
(see "Current Guidebook Updates: Some additional beta, new routes, and reccommended routes
[download] 80k"). I've popped an extract together (with a few more up to date comments) to help
below...

The new routes at Mackey's lookout are easy to find, well bolted and good fun and recommended (just
not on a hot day!).

There are also some additional topos which I've made available on the VCC's website (same URL as
above) which I hope will assist in making it easier to find your way around. (There are some great
aerial photos which didn't make it into the last guide)

Hope you enjoy your first trip to Buffalo.

Ciao,

Joe

Mackey’s Lookout:
A fundamental difference of opinion (16**). Great slabbing in a lovely area. Modern fixed pro
No Ego similar to above.
On the Edge of equilibrium 18** - great slab climbing. The bolts are pretty spaced though. Last time I
take this kind of advice! Spaced gear does not add to the climbing experience in my opinion. Much
safer than any of the existing routes!
Noblesse Oblege - fantastic easy long route (grade 12 or 13). Tricky to find the start of but good beta,
topos etc on the ACA website:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=1202
The Gorge:
Fantasies Of Gail (15*) in the waterfall area is very nice with some wild exposure and easy access
Home James (20**) – excellent, clean, appropriately protected, easy access. A pommie
visitor the summer before last reckoned it deserved three stars
Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé (16**) – perhaps a bit on the short side, but one of the few
routes of that sort of grade at Buffalo that is good quality, clean and easy to access.
Breathless (26***) - reputedly one of Ferret’s very best (and that includes some stiff
competition indeed)
Pretty Girls with Long Knives (23***) – reputedly one of the best, maybe even THE best dyke
route on the plateau (if you can find it!)
Hard Rain (22***) – Kevin Lindorff’s favorite route on the whole plateau. A solid outing. Take a
seasoned non-scared leader!
Beouwulf (18**) a good introduction to buffalo cracks. Solid for the grade.
Vanity Fair (25***) Face climbing at it’s best
Vertical Tai Chi (25**) Classy steep wall climbing
Silk and Satin (21**) having had so many fantastic comments of late (and so many ascents)
this surely must be a megaclassic.
Bannisters rush (21**) Sensational sustained well protected corner climbing / laybacking up
immaculate rock in an outrageous position! A pants filler!
Where Angels fear to tread (17**) You’ll either love it or hate it!
Ozymandias (270m M4)
Lord Gumtree (284m M7)
The Cathedral:
Sultan (20***)
Maharajah (17***)
Fire in the foothills (19*) great face climbing with good pro - a good way to get you up to the top of
"Edge of Pleasure"
Shell Shock (19*) great face climbing - a good way to get you up to the top of "Edge of Pleasure"
Bloodnock (17*) Good and clean and deserves two stars. Do the direct start - it looks really
good.
Something under the bed is drooling (19) really deserves at least one star. A bit exiting at the
top, but ok.
Edge of pleasure (21**) Just do the top pitch by abseiling in - you will need 2 ropes, as it's
about 40m. Fantastic arête climbing on perfect rock, which is well bolted.
Aerial (17*) great face climbing
The Dreaming (23***) - run out as all hell but can be top roped.
Substance Abuse (24***)
The Hump:
Chickens in Choppers (19**) easy to get to, lovely introduction to slabbing at Buffalo. (Can easily be
top roped)
Run Free with the Buffalo (19**) more superb slabbing right next to Chickens in Choppers (can easily
be top roped)
Cows with Guns (20**) just awesome slabbing. I’ve heard it said by some that this is a 3 star
route! (can easily be top roped)
The Initiation (18**) brilliant introduction to crack climbing at Buffalo. (How could this not get
3 stars?) (If you belay about 10-15m off the ground on the lovely flake this brings the grade down to
about 15 or 16 and takes the sting out of it's tail - all the business is in the first 10m).
Icing on the Cake (22**) - very bold but can be top roped off the rap station at the top of the cliff.
Glossip Skins(25*), Glossip Skins Direct(24**) - both pretty bold but can be top roped.
They Might be Giants
Redbacks (23**)
Whitetails (24**)
The Horn:
The Pintle Left Hand Variant (16***) excellent crack climbing. Not much pro at the top where
it’s easier (15m run out on the last bit, which while not hard would be daunting for anyone
doing their first grade 16!).
Big Fun (15**) Just plain fun. I've heard of people having trouble finding the start so just take
care.
Peroxide Blonde (20**) excellent arête climbing. The bolts are a little spaced to keep it
exiting in places. (Can easily be top roped if you don't feel brave).
Hoi Polloi (16*) last pitch only deserves a star- great fun arête climbing, which is well bolted.
The Mothballs:
The biggest thing here (16*) - a tricky start but lovely well protected arête climbing above.
Super easy access. Beginner friendly.
Waiting for a princess (19*) – gets grade 20 in the guide but is more like grade 19. A tricky
start but lovely well protected slab climbing above. Super easy access. Beginner friendly.