Crag & Route Beta

Topic	Date	User
Rap anchors on Taipan	28-Sep-2007 At 4:14:35 PM	MichaelOR
Message
Yeah, I wrote an article about trusting such 'fixed' gear on routes for Argus (VCC monthly) earlier this year. I included some photos of the squashed wire we found below Taipan. A very similar thing also happened to a stuck camming device at The Flat Iron. This expansion/contraction behind flakes is significant. Well placed wires get stuck as the cliff comes into sun, and they become unsafe or even fall out as the cliff comes into shade and cools down. Releading routes in the shade on gear placed earlier in the day in full sun means checking and replacing gear. Michael

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