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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	North Wall	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozymandias gear list 9-Apr-2019 At 7:34:04 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

Message

On 9-Apr-2019 Black dwarf wrote:
>Hi guys my mate and I are psyched to have our first aid bigwall adventure
>on ozymandias direct. We have doubles of C4s up to 3, then a single 4 and
>5. Plus plenty of mid to large nuts. Also have skyhooks and camhooks. Unfortunately
>we don't own any mirco cams or RPs and most trip reports I have read mention
>both. Unable to buy RPs, and we dont know anyone that owns any, I purchased
>a set of -
>
>Metolius astro aid mirco wires set 1-5
>Black diamond mirco stoppers 1- 6
>DMM imp brass nuts 1- 5
>
>- I'd been told you need at least three sets or RPs so opted for three
>different sets of mirco wires to give a wider range of sizes and shape.
>
>What do the ozy veterans think?
>Do we really need a set of mirco cams?
>Should we get more micro wires?
>
>Thanks!

You won't need more micro wires.
Regarding size and shape, the best fit for old pin scars on Ozy Direct is a number 3 size RP, and having at least three of that size or equivalent shape/size is a definite advantage, but having three complete sets of micro wires is overkill as you won't use the smallest (0's and 1's) or the largest (5's), or their equivalents, anywhere near as much, if at all!
If you are going to spend money on more gear then only buy the #3 size, as a double set of those is useful!

Camhooks can be used in some of the small RP equivalent size placements to good advantage, and will speed your ascent time considerably. If unfamiliar with their use then they will give your mental state a workout till confidence is gained!

The smallest micro cams are useful, but you can get by (though with a slower ascent time), without them by using nuts instead.
Personally I prefer offset micro-cams like offset aliens as they fit flared pin scars and flared cracks better...

If you can get another #4 or #5 C4 cam then you will also feel less run-out while leapfrogging them for a speedier ascent.