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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs (General) Pilor Error Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Topic Date User
Pilot Error Bolt 19-Nov-2015 At 8:02:26 AM Wendy
Message
On 19/11/2015 Macciza wrote:
>On 18/11/2015 sliamese wrote:
>>Hmmm i dont think the type of bolt placed will effect the number on it.
>
>Maybe not but I reckon a ring would get it more ascent then a glueing
>carrot but pretty sure if it was removed completely it would get far less
>. . .
>

Macca, I think you should probably avoid ever visiting Araps again because it will devestate your sense of tradition. For the most part, the climbing population of Araps has accepted that modern fixed gear is a fabulous thing and manky old pitons and flaccid carrots have been being replaced by stainless rings and FHs for at least 15 years now.

I'm with Kieran that PE is a overrated mini route, but it does get a lot of attention, it has always had a piece of fixed gear of some sort (and yes, it was strangly popular with a manky piton in it as well. Even after the first piton broke and someone hit the deck) and why should it become a poorly protected route now when the 1st ascentionist had a shiny new piton that presumably made all the right pings when it went in? The guidebook says it has a bolt in it, people will head up there expecting to find a bolt in it and some person with more enthusiasm than caution will probably flail on out to the lip thinking the bolt must be out there and promptly crater. I cringe and run from a lot of poor practices and lack of judgement at the Mt. They are certainly not exclusive to things with a bolt in them.

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