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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Pilot Error Cliffs	(General)	Pilor Error Wall	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Pilot Error Bolt 13-Nov-2015 At 8:32:53 AM Wendy

Message

Rather than bagging the guy out for asking what's best to be done, I think it's bloody great that he offered to do it. Most people like to just complain it needs to be done and expect some mysterious other to do it.

I agree the bolt is crap. It shouldn't have been rebolted with an expansion in the first place. I have never placed a glue in in my life and replacing a single glue in is a bit annoying as you have to have a whole tube and gun for it, which are rather costly and I also don't have them, so I'm afraid I'm going to have to pass it on to some else as well.

Having just spent ages removing a shitty expansion the other week and picked a few brains for tips on the way, I can suggest how to get it out:

When you are really lucky, they just undo and pull out. Or will wiggle out with leverage and brute force. If you can get the needle nose vise grips in, you can try holding the sleeve whilst loosening it. Next option is to pull out on the bolt with your weight or some sort of lever whilst trying to undo it. Seeing your bolt is already hanging out, you can grab an angle grinder and chop it off, then tap the bolt in and pull off the sleeve then fish the bolt out (tweezers are helpful).

Hopefully at the end off all of that you have a reusable hole, but willl still need to drill a second hole for a u or to recess a p. However, given where the bolt is, the easiest way to put a new bolt in is probably hanging off the old bolt, then removing it and patching the hole. As a midget who is constantly cursing bolt locations, have a think about whether 5 foot tall people will be able to clip your new location, but also that it is in a good spot for expected falls (it's pretty easy to come close to the ground or wall there regardless).

I'll see if I can sweet talk someone with the right kit into showing both of us how to place a glue in. Otherwise it will probably stay as another chockstone conversation that doesn't go anywhere.