*Midnight Rambler 78m 17
A good sustained climb up a prominent corner line. Starts in the corner 5m right of Hot Rats. 1. 38m Clean sustained climbing up the line past a few difficult sections, leads to a belay off nuts and the horizontal tree. 2. 40m Continue up the line past a few steep sections. Peter McKeand, Keith Wadsworth. 11.3.73
NB The first ascensionists, traversed out left from the ledge at 25m on the second pitch (at midnight). When Peter and Kevin Lindorff repeated the climb on 7.4.73 they added the present finish (in daylight!).
*Chunga's Revenge 66m 19
Even better than it looks. Start 3m right of Midnight Rambler. 1. 30m Climb the corner to the top of the buttress. Move right onto the ledge and belay in the corner. 2. 18m Bridge and layback steeply up the corner to its top. Move right to belay. 3. 18m (crux) Climb the left hand crack. Move left and up the final corner to the top. Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson. (alt) 15.4.73
NB This route would be really good if cleaned up by traffic. It has been freed with the third pitch finishing up the corner on the right (not left). FFA James McIntosh, Tony Wilson. 5.1.91
Swarff 56m 15,M2
Harder than it looks and loose in places. Starts 30m right of Chunga's Revenge in the next gully. The steep line starting from a ledge 5m up. 1. 21m Climb the steep crack on some loose holds and jams until forced to move right around the bulge. Move up and over the next bulge, continuing on to a good ledge and belay. 2. 15m Up the short closed corner to a ledge. 3. 20m Up using a combination of pegs and nuts to aid the extremely tight and strenuous corner to a ledge. Scramble to the top. John McMahon, Peter Jacob. (alt) 15.4.73
*Impossible Dream 70m 19/20
Walk along the base of the cliff to an area of shattered boulders beneath a large yellow overhang. Right of this is an orange wall topped by roofs. The climb starts from a ledge under these and takes the roof in the right hand corner. 1. 20m Climb out under the roof then up a body length, layback up with difficulty (two 'pipes and a big hex originally used for aid). Where the wide crack finishes, move left and up to a small broken ledge on the right. Up for 3m then up right to the belay ledge. 2. 25m Move up and left under an overhang for 4m to an in situ peg runner. A delicate move left, then up and traverse left for 4m to a ledge. Move back right to a short steep wall, climb the left hand crack until able to move right past loose rock to a bushy ledge and belay. 3. 25m Follow the short corner, then the small chimney and straight to the top. John McMahon, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) 16.6.74 FFA Simon Mentz, Greg Pritchard. 21.7.92