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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bung Crag (Bungleboori Creek)

rodw
3-Feb-2014
4:38:00 PM
Okay we are moving on so making it public for those that care...

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/gardens-of-stone-area/bung-crag

Located in Newnes Sate Forest north of Zig Zag railway mostly a sport crag was smattering of trad...(Bungleboori crack is across the creek from green wall, gr 21 65m trad test piece which apparently is a classic for the budding trad masters.)

Stats:
Climb Number - 75
Grades - 6-24

West carpark - best for Pagoda environs, surprise wall, pack raft spire, red & green wall
East Car carpark - best for Diesel wall, walk down wall and red wall

...though you can walk to all crags from each of them. East carpark road is rough so unless you have high clearance best to head for west carpark. (Diesel wall got its name from a stray rock that put a hole in my Diesel tank on one trip in.)

Pagoda environs is a great kids/beginner crag, Diesel a good moderate crag with harder stuff at surprise wall and up the creek valley. Mostly a 50m rope and bunch of draws will get you up most things but be aware there are longer routes, so make sure your rope is long enough for the lower offs (mainly surprise and red wall).

Most routes only had a few ascents, so treat holds with this in mind as it is the Blueys not Araps, though we have a 100kg+ climber in the crew and he had no issues. Place was hit hard by fires so don't wear white :) and take a brush to dust of a bit of soot or lichen we may have missed.

There are a few projects about so please stay off them as projectors are out of country or recovering from a broken bone, but plenty of other stuff to keep you amused.

There are some really good routes and some not so really good routes, haven't starred any of them...you can work it out...or if you really want my opinion PM me.

Enjoy (or not)..up to you.

P.S Note we do have an old rope that somehow survived the fires hanging down the southern side of the Pagoda, we wil get it next time we are there so just leave it.
jasmines
21-Mar-2016
10:51:58 PM
Hello,
A few friends and I are very interested in heading to the Pagoda Environs for some beginner sport climbing but am hoping for some extra info re directions to the West carpark. We'll be coming up in a 2WD, will it be okay to get all the way into the carpark? And around how long is the drive to the carpark from the initial turn off from Bells Rd at the ZigZag railway?

Sorry if these are silly questions, any tips you could give us would be really appreciated!
bradc
22-Mar-2016
9:57:25 AM
I was there on Sunday and road has worsened since rain. I think you'll be risking the sump in a 2wd especially if clearance is not great. Not too far extra walk for the pagoda area from where the road gets rough. Below info from thecrag.com:


Turn off bell line of road at ZigZag railway, and follow old bells line of road until about 1.5km past big left hand bend, turn right onto track with a tree marked with 2 small pink makers. (NOT trees with pink spray paint, keep driving. If you hit old sand mine you have gone about 1km to far.)

Road mostly 2wd friendly, last section needs a AWD or 4wd just for the clearance as it is a bit rocky and uneven... For walls A, B and C: higher 4WD's are recommended, as the road is uneven with inconsistent rock and large amount of undergrowth between tyres. Having only a 2WD drive will mean a 1km walk along mostly flat fire trail to car park. Small cars not recommended, and no place to turn around once past the "Y" in the road heading down to walls A. B and C.

Two car parks depending on which crags you want to visit, see location map below.

For walls A. B and C, once at the bottom of the 4WD track, head to the end and right of the remaining road, you will find a fixed rope down to crag.

BundyBear
22-Mar-2016
9:59:49 AM
I heard on the grape vine there is development of another new mega crag out there ?

rodw
22-Mar-2016
11:19:21 AM
Apart from ours?? Do tell.

BundyBear
22-Mar-2016
3:52:12 PM
On 22/03/2016 rodw wrote:
>Apart from ours?? Do tell.

I dunno, that's why Im asking the question :-) Whats on the other side of the creek ?
Jayford4321
22-Mar-2016
3:57:51 PM
U blueies climbers must B desperate when U have 2 resort 2 installing rings an writn up heaps of 10m routes, but the few ropelength ones sound ok, or R they multipitch 4U?

rodw
22-Mar-2016
3:59:55 PM
On 22/03/2016 BundyBear wrote:
>I dunno, that's why Im asking the question :-) Whats on the other side
>of the creek ?

Heaps of potential that side Bundy...getting to the top though for rap access might be the issue.

rodw
23-Mar-2016
10:38:29 AM
Btw Bundy your pvt msg folder is full

BundyBear
24-Mar-2016
1:12:14 PM
Fixed

Macciza
24-Mar-2016
3:15:03 PM
On 22/03/2016 rodw wrote:
>Heaps of potential that side Bundy...getting to the top though for rap access might be the issue.

Maybe he could trad climb to the top . . . . oh. or maybe not ...

rodw
24-Mar-2016
3:35:42 PM
Yep Bungleboori crack tops out

Macciza
24-Mar-2016
10:46:41 PM
Buddy climbing a trad crack? Get video please ....;~}

rodw
24-Mar-2016
11:35:39 PM
More likely than me :)

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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