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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
sundeck bolting
dicky
6-Mar-2013
9:41:02 PM
was at the sundeck at the weekend and was less than impressed with the bolting on the 18 on the far left of the crag penguin something - the last bolt below the chains is in a detached (ie cracks all round and behind) block which you also have to pull on to finish - it also sound as hollow as a hollow thing, chose not to trust the block and lowered off, just be aware if you are going there.
Also the crag still has a fair few loose holds that look like they probably should have been knocked off when the crag was developed, alothough they are just little bits of rock compared to the bloody great block - still had a good day just dont like that block!
Wendy
6-Mar-2013
9:57:58 PM
You should have seen the sundeck a few years ago! It's a pile of choss that has been enthusiastically shaped into a sport crag via pick axes and jimmy bars and lots and lots of bolts. Yep, the rock isn't that great still. But it's had a lot of traffic, so most stuff that's going to come off has already come off. I quite like the sundeck despite the manky rock. Steep juggy stuff is fun. Actually, it's all about the right grade for my shoulder rehab there. I should go back soonly.
MichaelOR
7-Mar-2013
3:15:12 PM
I wouldn't worry about one bolt that might fail if the block goes - the ones below are always close enough to keep you off the ground. You won't hit anything as the routes are steep enough.
It's far more dangerous belaying than leading. Wear helmets.
One Day Hero
7-Mar-2013
3:21:07 PM
I hope that's a joke
dalai
7-Mar-2013
3:26:49 PM
The cliff or the comment above ODH?

The answer is both... ;-)

The good Dr
7-Mar-2013
3:59:48 PM
The Sundeck ...

>I hope that's a joke

>The cliff or the comment above ODH?

>The answer is both... ;-)

Yes, tragedy + time.
dicky
8-Mar-2013
6:19:17 PM
yep silly me worrying,
a bolt in a 10 ton loose block which is also your hand and foot holds for the last move mantle, of course its steep? - vertical, so i can see this block floating away from the crag and landing gently in the bush with a slight sigh as it nestles itself in the leaves and not a climber tree or animal was harmed in the making of this bullshite.



goshen
10-Mar-2013
9:29:13 PM
i climbed that route a week ago (soloed, sorry), and I was aware of the so called block before I started, but to be honest, it felt very solid. I didn't pay much attention to where the bolt was (so maybe it shouldn't be there), but I had no qualms about pulling over it.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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