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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Rings on 7-Aug-2012 At 11:59:35 PM Macciza

Message

On 7/08/2012 hangdog wrote:
> Where is the imposition? If you want to do with the original protection
>then clip those ones. No one forces anyone to clip them. So dont. (Backwards
>forwards the arguement goes)

Thats because they are very different propositions - even more so with a bold route.
Choosing not to clip something is completely different to not having something to clip.
The mental factors are completely different between the two situations - no comparison.

Choosing to skip unnecessary clips or skipping possible gear placements is fun.
Climbing in clear and present danger without physical protection is very different fun.
Having to avoid protection/embrace exposure based on ethical decisions is often hard and not fun.

Really having them there and not using them actually makes it different/harder mental challenge.
The old way all I had to do was come up with a way that was ethically acceptable to me, without altering the route.
Then I simply had to gather the resolve to actually do it - knowing full well the situation and accepting it as it would be.

Now it is a very different story - I don't think it will be acceptable for me to use them if they are there when I try it.
That present a challenge before I even get on the route now - to not bring them into the equation at all.
Even if they are not there (and particularly if I had removed them) - I'll have to actively ignore they were there . . .
I'd prefer to simply have to deal with there not being anything at all - it is easier to deal with and safer for bold climbing . . .
Having a ring there could lead to a dangerous situation of indecision, hesitation, primal fear etc loss of focus, clarity & commitment etc

Or that s a quick ( hopefully honest) version of some of the ways that I personally find it at times when i am in these sorts of situations.
And I have at times sought out and been in these situations so I at least I am offering a qualified opinion on the matter.
Unless you have seriously contemplated doing the route or preferably tried it in it's original form - I don't think you understand.

So basically unless you are into bold shit and your hands don't go sweaty at the thought of it you really have no valid opinion on this issue.