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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Info for Angels

2:42:45 PM
Hi guys heading up to Buffalo next weekend and planning on doing where angels fear to tread, Original start direct finish. Need to know what gear comes in extra handy, how long roughly itll take 3 blokes to do it at a cruisy pace (including walk time). Ive heard people grade it from a 16 to 19, any reason for huge variation? Ive also been lead to believe that you dont need the aid if youve got a long reach, is it true?
Any info would be great!!
3:12:41 PM
Good places to start...

Angels Beta
Where Angels Fear to Tread
Angels Buffalo Beta

5:35:10 PM
There is no aid on the direct finish. Aid grade is for the original finish. Grade 17 if your familar with hand/offwidth cracks, harder in you havent jammed before. A lot of medium to large hexes and cams up to 3.5 or 4 camalot.

5:48:35 PM
Angels is a great climb that some folk have a really unpleasant time on. Here are some tips:

Know how to climb cracks.
Don't do it on a hot day.
Take water.
Make sure you start at the correct crack, which is on the left side of the buttress.
Tape up (unless you're a granite crack expert).
Wear solid boots (not slippers).
Take lots of gear to #4 Camalot + slings.
Start early to get to the front of the queue.

It has been done in 2 hours including walk down, but you'd best allow a full day.

If you're unsure of your ability to enjoy this route, try Devilled Cream as a warm up.

James Mc

9:56:34 AM
Thanks for the info. I think we might have a play on devilled cream for a warm up as I havent jammed for a while now, Also I wasnt expecting a crowd on angels so ill start first light. Once again, thanks

The good Dr
6:32:31 PM
A long sleeve shirt is also helpful

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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