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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Araps History
Mindtaker
7-Apr-2011
11:01:14 AM
Howdy all,

I'm currently writing my PhD in sociology at Newcastle University... on climbing. I'm looking for a bit of a history on the development of climbing at Araps. I would like to know about the development of climbs, central figures and the culture of the climbing, such as the taboo against bolting. I would also like to know a bit about the development of technology coming out of Araps, such as coming up with the idea for RP's. I know the guide books have brief history's, which is quite useful, but I'm wondering if there are any more extensive accounts.

Cheers,
Matt

ajfclark
7-Apr-2011
11:04:13 AM
There was a recent Rock magazine with a feature about Rowland and RPs that might give you some useful info too.

ajfclark
7-Apr-2011
11:05:31 AM
I haven't read it, but maybe Keith Lockwood's book Arapiles A Million Mountains might have something of use?

nmonteith
7-Apr-2011
11:11:58 AM
On 7/04/2011 Mindtaker wrote:
>such as the taboo against bolting.

I don't think there was ever a taboo against bolting - just a taboo against placing bolts next to trad placements. Every generation whacked bolts into Arapiles.

Keith Lockwoods book is the one you want to read - and also check out Louise Shepards Araps guide from the 1990s, or Carrigans guide before that. They all had good history chapters.

Gavo
7-Apr-2011
11:32:18 AM
Thats the third person Ive met in 2 months doing a PhD on climbing.

That blows my mind. Im in awe.

I was going to do a PhD on developmental genetics and/or next generation DNA sequencing technologies but climbing is far more exciting!

Im very jealous

Sabu
7-Apr-2011
11:45:59 AM
Another recommendation for Noddy's book. Might also be worth getting a hold of some of the earlier guide books as Neil suggested.

As for writing a phd on climbing i'm happier with my topic, would have no idea on where to start on a sociology paper...!
Each to their own though ;)

Gavo
7-Apr-2011
11:47:37 AM
I wouldnt know where to start either :) Me being a scientist and all... I find that other stuff confusing.

But I should think of a way to integrate climbing eh...

Maybe Ill search for a common allele amongst climbers or some such...

Eduardo Slabofvic
7-Apr-2011
11:55:42 AM
an interesting thread, as the "history" written down is small when compared to oral history.

e.g. if you read about the history of climbing in the 80's you will get a picture of certain routs and certain people but you will only scratch the surface of what life was like. Little is written about dole scams, grape picking, living in the dirt (but that bit hasn't changed), and other lifestyle pursuits.

a comparison of climbing styles would give you an insight, as "red pointing" used to be called "hangdogging" and was frowned upon.

see if you can find copies of screamer or old Argus'

vwills
7-Apr-2011
12:05:29 PM
As most of the perps are still alive and kicking why dont you interview them? Perfect excuse to head to araps on a field trip.
Mindtaker
7-Apr-2011
12:57:09 PM
On 7/04/2011 Gavo wrote:
>Thats the third person Ive met in 2 months doing a PhD on climbing.

I would be interested in chatting with some of my fellow climbing 'researchers'!

I'm fiddling with an article at the moment that I wanted the Araps information for. It would be great to develop a socio/historical history of Araps, but unfortunately, I've elected to do my fieldwork on ice climbing in North America... Good thing I like ice climbing! I mean, in my spare time, not while I'm doing research, of course.
rolsen1
7-Apr-2011
1:00:03 PM
On 7/04/2011 vwills wrote:
>As most of the perps are still alive and kicking why dont you interview
>them? Perfect excuse to head to araps on a field trip.

What is happening with the dogtown and z boys type documentary that someone was doing? I know it wasn't exclusive to araps but sounded like a good idea
widewetandslippery
7-Apr-2011
1:01:21 PM
To follow on from Eduardos post you really should do a comparitive study of wanking and handoging. Everyone did it just not everyone admited to it, and the few who didn't were strange.

MisterGribble
7-Apr-2011
1:10:33 PM
On 7/04/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>To follow on from Eduardos post you really should do a comparitive study
>of wanking and handoging. Everyone did it just not everyone admited to
>it, and the few who didn't were strange.

Freud was right!

Gavo
7-Apr-2011
1:44:21 PM
On 7/04/2011 Mindtaker wrote:
>I would be interested in chatting with some of my fellow climbing 'researchers'!

Well as anyone who knows me will tell you, I always like to talk... so I'm always up for a talk!

Not sure I would bring anything to the table though.. I am bumbly enough to know little of Araps history and my putative area of research is cheese to your chalk
martym
7-Apr-2011
4:25:46 PM
On 7/04/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>an interesting thread, as the "history" written down is small when compared
>to oral history.

These guys can probably help you out:
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=13744&Replies=83&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost
lacto
7-Apr-2011
11:34:46 PM
the 1978 arapiles guide by keith lockwood for the vcc has the first 13 pages devoted to history . the old green and black guides also contained a lot of the history .carrigans 1983 guide has little information of history
climbingjac
8-Apr-2011
1:32:06 AM
Not overly relevant to the "culture/history of climbing" but definitely about the "historical landscape" of Arapiles... I have a couple of antique pics of Arapiles from the 1800s.

The first one is a steel engraving from 1872, titled "Mount Araphilas, Victoria". It shows Bard Buttress, the Major Mitchell Gully, Tiger Wall & beyond, and Mitre Rock. Castle Crag is absent, most likely because the artist didn't feel like drawing it in. The "summit" of Tiger Wall is also very uniform, so quite possible that the artist drew it how they wanted and not entirely on the reality of what he/she saw. There is a swamp covering at least the area that is now "The Gums Campground" complete with some swamp birds, and some people (Aborigines?) having a campfire.

The second is a wood engraving from 1885, titled "Mount Arapiles". Drawn from almost the same position, only this time featuring Castle Crag as well. The swamp appears to be gone, and the Aborigines are replaced with some gentlemen in safari suits and hats. One of them seems to be attempting to shoot something with a rifle. If the 1872 pic did feature Aboriginal folk, I'd imagine they took off when team safari suit turned up with their rifles.

Plaque Rock is not present in either of the two pics.

You would be welcome to take a look if that is useful to your project. Might be an interesting intro to the "history" component of Arapiles. It certainly doesn't have a swamp at the base of Bard these days (or maybe it did during the recent floods!) I have seen (but am now annoyed that I did not buy) historical maps of the Wimmera that showed that large portions of the region were indeed swampland once upon a time.

BoulderBaby
8-Apr-2011
4:57:19 PM
I think you should move to Natimuk and talk to the locals.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9-Apr-2011
11:17:23 AM
On 7/04/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>To follow on from Eduardos post you really should do a comparitive study
>of wanking and handoging. Everyone did it just not everyone admited to
>it, and the few who didn't were strange.

Yeah, but these days its like walking down Bourke Street with your togger in your hand shouting "Look how hard I am".

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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