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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Don't be an a--hole. 21-Jan-2011 At 11:45:45 AM phil_nev
Message
@ Wendy, it dosnt need an anchor and yes it does top out... Some semi decent bolts to replace the existing bolts (like-for like) would be nice though. Would certainly make cleaning a lot safer.


On 20/01/2011 Macciza wrote:
>No anchor? Doesn't Serpentine top-out anyway? How about a trad anchor over
>the top and your second cleans it, on ascenders if needed . . .
>If I headed down mid-week wanting to go the onsight, and found it stitched
>up I'd probably rip the old gear out and drop it . . .
>I can't see how placing even 16 bits of gear/draws could be called 'hard
>work', come on . . . HTFU . . .

Stripping the gear and throwing to the ground??? Are you for real?? Thats a bit drastic don't you think???

Why do you think serpentine has only been done once or twice PLACING gear??? It's because it is hard work putting the gear on, Some of the bolts are in great positions for the redpoint but poor for the onsight.. At the first crux, the bolt is in the middle of the hard moves and the same goes for the 2nd crux.

As for not understanding how hard it can be to place the gear... Perhaps that's because most of the gear you place is placed while hanging of a skyhook while aiding??? It's a different story when you actually have to hold your own bodyweight as well as the rack of gear your carrying.

There are 22 replies to this topic.

 

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