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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Definition of Onsight 27-Feb-2009 At 3:13:24 PM WM
Message
chalkischeap - surely you're not saying that on a route like Contra with really difficult pro, there's no difference between a send placing gear vs. sending it on preplaced gear? The latter type of ascent/attempt on contra is far more common than the former. On trad and/or pumper routes like this, a redpoint is often a world of difference to a pinkpoint. (but insignificant on routes with good clipping stances, of course)

I'm no saint - in my own climbing I usually don't care about trying to redpoint rather than pinkpoint. (& I have also given up on "saving routes for the onsight" - climbing time is too short not to jump on a classic that you can do in a few shots and have an absolute ball in the process). but if we're going to talk about terminology then I definitely think there's a difference worth noting

I also realise the original Germans probably painted their "rotpunkts" at the base of routes sent in pinkpoint style, and that my definition of "redpoint" is therefore narrower than theirs. But the 4th box and 7th box in the bottom line of my decision tree can represent very different achievements, and therefore need different names ...

On 27/02/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>PS any differentiation in Trad VS Sport VS Boulder?

it works for trad and sport IMO, although some of the distinctions hardly matter in sport.

(btw there's some omissions for the sake of brevity, e.g. yo-yo should also say that you're toproping back up to your highpoint each time but there wasn't room)

There are 123 replies to this topic.

 

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