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ben cairn history - anyone know this??? 2-Feb-2009 At 10:50:31 AM WM

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On 29/10/2006 sking wrote:
>... at the time of the Musk, Hashish and Blood attempts and eventual hoax.” Greg Pritchard.
>There is no indication of what this 'hoax' is or was...anyone know?
On 1/11/2006 GTempest wrote:
>Hmmm, a little iddy biddy bolt (hidden in the moss) just left of the WHOPPER
>on Skating Away? And for what? A couple of extra metres of what is pretty
>much exactly the same climbing.
On 2/11/2006 sking wrote:
>Could not see the bolt to the left at all. Would seem pointless.
>... untraceable weirdness that would go left into moss just to finish in a bush!

Musk Hashish and Blood has had about 90% of the moss removed by a good samaritan, so we TRed it yesterday. It shares the cracks of Skating Away then steps left as soon as you're on the slab (2-3m before the bolt on Skating Away). the independent top half is good slab climbing and well clear of the Skating Away slab. And the moves are actually quite different to Skating Away. steeper slab moves between two faint dykes, very cool. The bushes are a non-issue, it's all over by there and there's a gap which is easy to go through. Plus it's nice to have an excuse to redo the beautiful cracks in the bottom half of Skating Away. So, MH&B definitely adds to the crag and I'd encourage others to continue the cleaning to properly salvage this totally worthwhile line (it's not quite in condition for leading yet IMO). The bolt is in the right spot, it would not be as freaky to clip as the bolt on Skating Away - but it now has a healthy coating of rust so may be in need of replacement.

There's some discontinuous cracks & seams (completely mossed over) on the bulge 2-3m L of the cracks of Skating Away, under the MH&B bolt. the hoax may relate to whether or not these cracks were ever climbed - they look bloody hard (even if clean). would be a great line if they did go though!

On 1/11/2006 GTempest wrote:
> Which brings me to another point. The bolt
>on Skating Away. Is it the same mild steel bolt I angle grinded to the
>shithouse and over hammered (using a held star drill and small sledge
>hammer) probably 25 years ago?
On 2/11/2006 mikl law wrote:
>had a bit of a slabpiphany at THE bolt. Got up it quickly but realised that slab 21 = somewhere between18 and 25 depending on what you've been climbing lately.

a certain relapsed Mexican had a very rapid downwards slabpiphany for about 7m past that over-ground and over-hammered bolt yesterday. it held, and the compulsory dodgy looped wire didn't fall off ... this time. can someone explain the sense in letting such time bombs keep ticking?

all the usual trade routes are in pretty good condition at the moment. can everyone please remember to take their brushes and do their bit to keep it that way

Anyone got some good beta for the crux bulge of Fiction? such a good route, if only I could do that move :( if we'd not been trying it at 2pm in blazing sun i guess that might have helped. we might look at replacing the old rusty carrots too (if we can suss the moves).