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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Lactic Acid Conditioning 14-Nov-2008 At 4:05:11 PM WM

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> i don't work routes. if i worked routes i reckon i'd be able to climb at least 26 on sport, but
>who the hell wants to do that?

I don't work routes as much as some (I've only once had more than 5 shots on a route) - but working a route is actually very rewarding if its the right route. just the other day I was reflecting on my last grampians trip when I onsighted World Party pitch 3 and sent rattlesnake shake 4th shot, and (fans of world party will kill me for saying this) I actually got a lot more enjoyment out of rattlesnake shake.

>there are 2000 climbs alone between gramps and araps

more like 2500 at araps and 5000 in the gramps!

>, who needs to work a single route over and over?

OTOH who wants to "save everything for the onsight" if it means you never get on all the megaclassics you could do 3rd shot?

just do 15-20
>climbs at your onsight limit then jump up to the next grade.
>helps with stamina, too ;-)

personally I improve quicker by working both angles - redpointing improves your onsighting, onsighting improves your redpointing.