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Sport climbing in Grampians and Arapiles 9-Nov-2008 At 8:16:34 PM jgoding

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Hi,

you might like to consider these suggestions:

The Grampians:

The Ravine - good (single pitch sport) climbing (particuarly good in hot weather until around 4pm when the sun hits the main wall) in the 18-26 range, all very well bolted. Details on the ACA website here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=382

See this link for the following: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=346
Wave Wall / AKA The Sun Deck - short and not worth flying half way around the world for, and best in winter or on cooler days as it gets the sun from first thing until around 4pm but fun sports routes 18-21 grades. About 8 or 9 decent routes, generally steep jug hauling - all well bolted. Uphill 10-15min walk.
The Sun Gate - same vein as The Sun Deck but steeper and a little harder (20-25 grades) and another 10min walk in (past the Sun Deck).

There are not many good bolted sport routes anywhere in Vic under 22 that have many others of a similar or lesser grade at the same cliff. Some of the best (stand alone) sport routes grade 22 or less in my opinion are:

Terminal Insomia - 22*** - Van Diemens Land, Hollow Mountain (Nth Grampians)
The Tyrant's Grasp 22*** Amnesty International Wall, Hollow Mountain (Nth Grampians)
Guides here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=79
The gallery is great if you climb 23 or more (I wouldn't suggest it unless you do - the 21's there are not worth the trip).
Muline is awesome if you're climbing at least 25 or 26. Entry level 24 there.

At Buffalo there are some fairly well bolted slabs which I guess you could roughly classify as sport routes (and climb well this time of year):
The Hump - Cows with Guns (20**), Chickens in Choppers (19**), Run free with the buffalo (19**).
Mackey's lookout (Stiletto Slab): there is a grade 15 slab ("A fundamental difference of opinion") that is 3 pitches and well bolted. A few other things around there are also multi-pitch and well bolted (beware of the very old super run-out horror shows though!!!).
There is also a fun easy day out on the huge wall below the main wall of Mackey's lookout - the route is called "Noblesse Obleege".
Guides here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=415

Other areas that are sensational this time of year are Tasmania. Guy Gerry's excellent "best of Tasmania" guide. It's got a fantastic selection. Hillwood might take your fancy amongst others. There is one total gem 22*** called "Sapphire Rose" on a large cliff called "Fingal" (also known as "Bear Rock") which is 3 or 4 pitches from memory and a stunning day out in an isolated beautiful area. Pretty solid for the grade though - particularly the first pitch!

There is some great info on rock climbing in Tasmania here too: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Introduction+to+Tasmanian+Climbing

PS I concur with patto. Go to Arapiles and ask for help if you need it with Trad climbing. The place is fantastic. Just leave your details on a note on the toilets and someone should be kind enough to take you up some of the classic routes. There is an excellent new guide for that area just out this year too...

Happy climbing,

Joe