Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

CRUX #7 - Out This Week! 16-Oct-2008 At 6:01:24 PM MichaelOR

Message

It's a sport climb, has straight forward and easy to read moves, good ringbolts, AND is very soft for the grade if you stop at the first set of chains (original route). Even if you keep going higher with the good extension it still struggles to get to 22.
It's got to be the easiest 22 in the Gramps ...... I don't know why Simey and Glenn didn't down grade it years ago in their first edition! Perhaps they didn't climb it.
If you climb to the bolts the clipping positions are v good off jugs - don't fight to clip early off small holds. Along the traverse, when you start to get a little pumped, there are solid kneebars to be had. Take the rests, use your heel hooks and enjoy.
The original is a good 20....... and the grade comes from the first few moves off the deck.
Now if you want to lead a 22, try Dagons Temple, which is mentioned earlier in this thread. If you think it is 21 try Pathos at the same cliff.
On a positive note, the picture is great ..... much better than the climb.
Whinge about my down grade if you must, but climb Dagons or Pathos first!