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Topic Date User

Worlds hardest slab...E12 14-Oct-2008 At 9:08:50 AM phil_nev

Message

On 14/10/2008 cruze wrote:
>I don't mean at all to detract from Seb Grieve's fantastic effort but can
>someone explain to me how Parthian Shot was graded E9 (7a) in Hard Grit
>when Seb took repeated falls onto an albeit nest of small fiddly gear in
>the one feature into clean air with room to spare off the ground.
>
>That looks objectively pretty safe to me. Many climbers would dream of
>having such a clean fall. Or is this an example of how the E grade shoots
>up with the difficulty of the crux move. Just curious.

The way i understand it...
Because in the bizzare world off the the UK system, the E grade directly relates to the difficulty. So, in the case of Parthian Shot which has very difficult climbing on gear, the E grade is automaticly higher. ie: you cant have a grade 30/31 trad route thats E5/6. Exactly like McLeods Rhapsody E11. The fall from the crux is big, but not a killer. But as the climbing is somewhere in the region of french 8C, the E grade is automaticlly bumped up.