General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
How to climb 9a... Secrets found here	2-Oct-2008 At 11:19:09 AM	phil_nev
Message
This is a rough idea of the training that Tomas Mrazek does on a weekly basis. And now our basic training weeks:-) TRAINING WEEK 1 - POWER MONDAY MORNING 20min - easy climbing and warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – boulder routes 10-15moves,(middle size of holds-long moves) , pauza 10-15min 45min – on sight bouldering 10min – cooling down, technik oriented routes AFTERNOON 10min – warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – bouldering 3X (boulder 7-10moves/3X perfect climbing with weights max 3kg) pauza 10-15min 60min bouldering on small holds /short powerfull moves 15min – foot off 20min – free time, climbing for fun EVENING Forearms massage TURSDAY MORNING 20min – warm up(little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – bouldering on slopers (5-7 moves /max. loading), pauza 10-15min 30min – bouldering in roof (hard moves on small holds, hars to your body) 20min - bouldering with ? (technik bouldering) 10min – cooling down – technik AFTERNOON Fitness or elektotraining EVENING Forearms massage WEDNESDAY Regeneration – water. THURSDAY MORNING 20min – warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – bouldering 10-15moves middle-big holds/long moves/foot only very small footholds), pauza 10-15min 30min – bouldering 7-10moves (hard moves on small holds, hard to your body) 10min – cooling down , technike boulders AFTERNOON 150min – climbing on the big climbing wall (or rock,if you have) (60min hard routes, after 3-4 routes 2X times over) EVENING Forearms massage, massage back FRIDAY MORNING rest AFTERNOON Start at 14-15h 10min – warm up 120min – arbitraly training, but in another climbing gym 10min finish with tecnical exercises SATURDAY MORNING Fitness may be electrostimulation AFTERNOON rest EVENING Forearms massage, massage back SUNDAY Regeneration day – water massage. TRAINING WEEK 2 - POWER MONDAY MORNING 20min - easy climbing and warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – boulder routes 7-10moves/middle to big holds/long moves , pauza 10-15min 30min – bouldering 3x(7-10moves boulders /3x repeat, thinking about perfect technic, with weight max.3kg) 30min – on sight technike bouldering with/ short problems 10min – cooling down, technik oriented routes AFTERNOON 10min – warm up (strecing) 30min – bouldering with max .long moves on middle holds, pauza 10-15min 60min bouldering on small holds /short powerfull moves 15min – foot off 20min – free time, for fun EVENING TURSDAY MORNING 20min – warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 30min – bouldering on slopers (5-7 moves /max. power), pauza 10-15min 30min – bouldering in roof (hard moves on small holds, moves to power of your body) 20min - bouldering in vertical profile (technik bouldering) - foot only very small footholds, 10min – cooling down – technik AFTERNOON Fitness or campus EVENING Forearms massage WEDNESDAY Regeneration - water THURSDAY MORNING 20min – warm up (little jogging, strecing, breathing exercises....) 10min – speed climbing for time, circle around your bouldering room (write your time) 20min – bouldering 7-10 moves/ middle to big holds/ foot only very small footholds, pauza 10-15min 20min – horizontal bouldering, (no foots) – bigger holds 30min – bouldering 7-10moves/sloupers/hard moves to all body 10min – cooling down , technike boulders AFTERNOON 150min – climbing on climbing wall or rock (60min hard routes, 3-4 routes/ 2x the same route , but without pauze) EVENING Forearms massage, back FRIDAY MORNING rest AFTERNOON 10min – warm up 120min - arbitraly training, but in another climbing gym 10min – cooling down SATURDAY MORNING Fitness or campus AFTERNOON rest EVENING Forearms massage, back SUNDAY Regeneration day – water massage.

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