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Loose hold on Equalizer, Shipley Upper.

chris

18-Jul-2007
8:22:03 PM

Nathan Hoette reports that the crucial crux "ear" on Equalizer, everybody's favourite 28, is loose.
Please stay off until it can be fixed, hopefully in the next few days... or if you have the gear to do it, you might be able to fix it before Nate or Ado or myself gets to it... Thanks, Chris C.


Sabu

18-Jul-2007
10:17:09 PM

I'm interested on what you mean by the word "fix"....


mousey

18-Jul-2007
10:20:41 PM

its devil magic james, best not to enquire.... just be like everyone else & hope someone else will 'fix' it (so that you can do the climb & still get to whinge about ethics)
*just stiiiiiirrrrrrin it up!*


muki

18-Jul-2007
11:12:05 PM

On 18/07/2007 Sabu wrote:
>I'm interested on what you mean by the word "fix"....

The same thing that happened to the loose holds on Punks in the gym at Arapiles.

chris

19-Jul-2007
9:57:50 AM

Oops, should have put a warning on this post...."Please do not read if you are Mexican." ;)


phil_nev

19-Jul-2007
9:59:57 AM

On 19/07/2007 chris wrote:
>Oops, should have put a warning on this post...."Please do not read if
>you are Mexican." ;)

Or a beard stroker

Pommy

19-Jul-2007
10:12:09 AM

Is there a difference?


HM33

19-Jul-2007
10:14:57 AM

to allay fears what he meant by fix was:

to organise a foam mold of the hold to be fashioned so that he could recast a plastic hold to the exact specifications of the suspect hold. then the said hold would be neatly cleaved off the cliff and the nice new plastic (probably orange to match rock colour) hold could be bolted on in its place.

common practice up here.

either that or maybe a bit of glue reinforcement to try and stop it actually disappearing. this is equally common.


rodw

19-Jul-2007
10:45:07 AM

I just hope for once they colour it like a shiny new ring bolt, that way it'll hardly be noticed and blend in with the rest of the crag, im sick of those bright pink fluro ones....they are an eye sore and not in keeping with the trad ethics of the area.

As for glue reinforcement..now thats just crossing the line...its wrong I tell ya, WRONG!!!!!!

gil

19-Jul-2007
11:12:34 AM

What should not be overlooked here is George Fieg's uncanny and Nostradamus-like ability to predict the future grades of a climb.

I say let the hold crumble and put the grade back to 31!

for fox sake

19-Jul-2007
1:20:09 PM

Don't forget to take your Allen Key up with you incase the said hold starts to spin !

hipster

19-Jul-2007
7:33:46 PM

The flake supporting the hold has been glued today. It was climbed on within the hour. No more flex. Don't like what I've done..guess what, I don't care!! The climb lives on!!
Now back to the woody....Ado


rodw

19-Jul-2007
8:19:23 PM

WTF!!! Im outraged...:)

Nice work Ado.


JJ

19-Jul-2007
9:08:04 PM

I like it


Chuck Norris

20-Jul-2007
1:11:08 AM

ummm....you seppos from up north have been gagging for a violent reaction for something very, very,
insignificant...so i'll do my best to accommodate...But first can i ask one question?

Q: Whats the definition of a grey beard?

A: Someone who bangs on and on and on and on about how "their way was best" or perhaps "in my
day we did it this way....." blah blah blah...totally boring, yeh?

in which case all you supportors of glueing up the cliffs a la the above route....."to support the way I
did it" are just the next generation of grey-beards, because like it or not...despite how 'cool' and 'chilled'
you are....The next generation will be rapping the cliffs with hammers smashing off the glued up mess
you've created whilst pissing on your grave. Just like we do on the old piton bashers from yesteryear.

For cristsake let the goddam cliff eRode In Peace.

buenos noches

xxxx

estuardo guillermo


JJ

20-Jul-2007
10:38:26 AM

I still like it


HM33

20-Jul-2007
10:50:28 AM

Hooray for the Neo Grey Bearders. I like Beards :)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

20-Jul-2007
10:54:46 AM

I just shaved mine off.
Does this mean I can ab-inspect, glue etc, now?

Mind you, some people change ethics as easily as shaving ...
Heh, heh, heh.
:)

simey

20-Jul-2007
10:55:02 AM

Nice post Stugang. Anyone who can so clearly point out the beard stroking tendencies of the Blueys sport-climbing scene should go into politics as a spin doctor.

for fox sake

20-Jul-2007
3:27:28 PM

Once again the northerners take a chilled out view to this thread and the mexicans are entering the 'Red-zone' !

There are 42 messages in this topic.