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Sport Climbing in the Gramps?

Setha

5-Nov-2003
11:48:55 PM

Hi there,

Myself and a couple of other South Australians are planning on making an excursion to the Grampians for some sport climbing in a few weeks (after exmas), and I was curious as to any recommended areas? Our climbing level is in the low 20's (24/25 max), and unfortunately it seems that there isn't heaps to offer at this grade in terms of bolts. After checking out some topos I'm thinking maybe Sentinel Cave (and The Gaurdhouse), but that would only be one days worth. If there are any suggestions that would be fantastic.

Cheers,
Seth.


shiltz

6-Nov-2003
8:16:35 AM

Northern Grampians on bolts:
Sentinel Cave, Spurt Wall, Cut Lunch Wall*, Van Diemans Land*

Victoria Ranges on bolts:
The Gallery*, Muline (bit hard maybe)

Central Grampians on bolts:
The Watchtower

The Grampians Selected Guide supplemented with chockstone on-line guides will get you acquainted with these areas.
You really should consider packing the trad racks. There are a lot of semi-bolted routes that you could do.


nmonteith

6-Nov-2003
9:04:51 AM

These are three other really good options. All good bolts with lower-offs. Guides on this website. I listed the grades that are available.

Amnesty Wall, Stapylton ** - 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27....

Red Rocks, Vic Ranges * - 19, 21, 22, 23, 24

Centurion Walls, Mt Difficult - 23, 24, 25, 26

climbingjac

6-Nov-2003
11:50:41 AM

Hi Seth,

We took you to Sentinel Cave on your previous trip to the Gramps. It offers:

1 x 17
1 x 20
2 x 23
2 x 26

I wouldn't bother with Muline... it offers one partial trad 23; a thuggy 24, and it goes up from there. The Gallery is a must-visit destination. It offers 2 x 23s with enormous handholds that you'd never expect to find on natural rock!

Good luck

Cheers - Jac


The Elk

6-Nov-2003
11:58:35 AM

Amnesty Wall... Tyrants Grasp.... 22 ... LOVELY! I recommend it.... Big pockets, followed by a BIG REST, and pumpier steep climbing to crimps! Yep... Nice climb.

There's plenty to keep you entertained up in that area, Van Diemens etc...

cheers!


nmonteith

6-Nov-2003
12:04:12 PM

After a lot of demand for this I am currently writing a full article on sub 24 sport climbing in the Grampians. Should be online in a few days. It will have all the beta, photos ect for several weeks of fun.

mikl law

6-Nov-2003
12:20:31 PM

I'll downgrade all my 25's so they get there too.

James

6-Nov-2003
12:46:57 PM

but can you say the grade without laughing??


nmonteith

6-Nov-2003
1:07:13 PM

ok - sub 25 then.

Setha

6-Nov-2003
2:51:05 PM

Hey Jac,
Yep, I remember going to Sentinel Cave, and I want to go back just for Stepping on Snakes and Media Puzzle, also I think the people I will be with will like those as well as the 17 and Dwarf Pumper.

Neil,
an article like that would be awesome for interstaters like myself who don't really have that much knowledge of the Grampians, especially the new areas. I look forward to seeing it.

Thanks to all for your recommendations, I'd really like to check out Red Rocks and Amnesty Wall sound like a good one.

Onsight

6-Nov-2003
5:09:31 PM

It's such a reaonable request... I mean it's the grades and style that so many people are intersted in. But the Grampians? So so much beautiful rock, yet so few routes that are properly (or reasonably) equiped (for sport climbing). It's enough to make you cry...


nmonteith

6-Nov-2003
5:59:31 PM

You will be happy to know i have consolidated it down to 15 areas all with sport routes under grade 25. There is some real classics out there if you can just filter through all the trad rubbish. ;-)

kieranl

6-Nov-2003
11:48:20 PM

Sorry but most of the good climbs in the low 20s in Gariwerd have good natural gear.

If you want to have a good climbing experience in the Grampians (Gariwerd) at any level you should be able to place natural gear.

It's a National Park and climbers doing new routes there try not to place bolts where there is good natural gear. It's not a place where we can splatter bolts around at will.

That's the nature of the area and if you aren't up to it then it's your problem.


phil_nev

7-Nov-2003
7:53:53 AM

He's Back............

mikl law

7-Nov-2003
7:55:32 AM

You have to take each area as it has evolved, respect what it has to offer, and climb in that style. If you come from somewhere else you know it's going to be different, expect to drop a few grades, and do your homework (which it sounds like you're doing). A problem for visitors is that it's an intricate area which requires lots of local knowledge to get the best out of. Most cliffs have only a small number of climbs that will appeal to you (grade and quality) and while harder routes are "splattered" with bolts, the easier ones aren't. In particular, the descents and lack of lower offs turn many nice little climbs into a day out spoilt by bush bashing. Learning to place wiggly stuff and dropping 8 grades is a worthy cause, but you will want to do some real climbing too. I'd probabaly go bouldering too.


nmonteith

7-Nov-2003
9:04:08 AM

The intro to this guide goes something like this....

The Grampians National Park contains some of the most aesthetic and challenging sport routes in the country. Sweeping orange walls, huge heucos and steep caves are the usual attraction for sport climbers. Most of the climbs require good sloper technique, forearms of steel and the ability to monkey across steep territory. Crimpers are not common in the Grampians. Victorian climbers are still living somewhat in the dark ages when it comes to sport climbing. Climbs still have to be committing and adventurous with some long runouts between bolts. Ringbolts are not common so retreating midway up a route usually requires a bail biner. These old attitudes are slowly changing but a fair degree of care needs to be taken when setting off into unknown territory.

Unlike places like Nowra or the Blue Mountains, the Grampians does not have many pure sport climbing areas. This is mainly because it is a highly protected National Park, where millions of tourists visit each year to view and experience nature. Shiny bolts near tourist walking tracks are very frowned open by Parks Victoria so most of these crags require walk ins to places far off the beaten track. If you are climbing near tourists try not to draw attention to yourself. Don’t leave quickdraws or ropes on routes overnight as they are highly visible.

Most of the areas listed in this guide only contain two or three sport routes under grade 25 but may contain easier trad routes. This is because much of the rock is of superb quality and takes good natural gear. A few of these selected climbs may need one or two bits of natural gear to make them saner. It is always a good idea to sling a few wires or cams in the bag before setting out to climb any routes in the Grampians, even when they are marked as pure sport climbs. Climbs that need natural gear will be described with the exact gear required and be marked with the (!) symbol.

Dalai

7-Nov-2003
10:19:13 AM

Good work Neil. It will be interesting to see what area's you will include.

kieranl

7-Nov-2003
11:25:31 PM

Neil, please change "millions of tourists" to "thousands of tourists". There's no point in hyperbole. Thousands is accurate, millions is bullshit.

I think it is unfair to say that "Victorian Climbers are still living somewhat in the dark ages when it comes to sport climbing". Our three major climbing areas are Arapiles, The Grampians and Mt Buffalo. These are all National or State Parks. In those areas the placing of bolts is an issue.

The strategies that I have been involved with in the past with the parks service has been that climbers will not place bolts when there is adequate natural protection.

All climbers need to respect the environment that they are climbing in but sport climbers need to be especially aware that their requirements might not be compatible with the area that they wish to visit.

kieranl

7-Nov-2003
11:32:40 PM

Phil,

Are you referring to me? I never went away. If you have a problem with my post, please tell me.

If you were objecting to my post to the person complaining about the lack of sport routes in the grampians then I am puzzled. It's a National Park, not a sport-climb park.

Anyhow, let me know.

Kieran


phil_nev

8-Nov-2003
4:37:20 AM

Just thought u were a bit confronational thats all..... A bit of humor.
"That's the nature of the area and if you aren't up to it then it's your problem. "

No offence was intended, i was just messin with ya. I was just refering to when u first joined this site, confrontation was a major factor in most of your posts.... Of course now your nothing but a gentleman.

Cheers,
Phil

There are 34 messages in this topic.