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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Renaming/rebolting aid route/attracting a girl! 7-May-2007 At 8:59:04 PM chalkischeap
Message
On 7/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>These bolts are belay and access bolts, much like the new anchors that
>have sprung up all over
>Arapiles in the last few years (and on other routes on Taipan). I was
>sick and tired of watching good
>friends risking thier lives by scrambling across that traverse un-roped.
>One slip (or one hold snap) and
>they would be dead. A 15m free fall onto the deck. In the last 12 months
>i have seen maybe 30+
>people going back and forwards across that traverse, many of them requiring
>a belay. The crimp flake
>everyone uses on that mantle move is a flexing time-bomb. It is reccomened
>that people now carry a
>long sling, and they clip themselves into the new bolt and do the mantle,
>then reach back and unclip.
>Its a bit like a via-ferrata.
>
>And regarding Venom, I have belayed several eurpeons on this route recently
>who don't have
>additional trad gear, they just clip the fixed mank and climb it as a
>sport route. So, to them its a sport
>route! (as is Snake Flake, Invisible Fist & Mr Josh with the fixed stuff
>in-situ!)
>
>These addional bolts were installed to stop a likely accident from less
>experianced belayers being
>forced to get to and from the belay stances. Many cimbing accidents happen
>when people are soloing
>or 'scrambling'.
>
>I knew these bolts had the potential to be controversial, but I feel happy
>to see they have been used
>by heaps of people in the month since i installed them.

You need a few wires and cams to climb at Taipan. Please can we keep it that way.

(don’t like the Venom ledge bolts, don’t like the justifications put forward)

There are 137 replies to this topic.

 

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