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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Renaming/rebolting aid route/attracting a girl! |
7-May-2007 At 8:59:04 PM |
chalkischeap
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Message |
On 7/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>These bolts are belay and access bolts, much like the new anchors that
>have sprung up all over
>Arapiles in the last few years (and on other routes on Taipan). I was
>sick and tired of watching good
>friends risking thier lives by scrambling across that traverse un-roped.
>One slip (or one hold snap) and
>they would be dead. A 15m free fall onto the deck. In the last 12 months
>i have seen maybe 30+
>people going back and forwards across that traverse, many of them requiring
>a belay. The crimp flake
>everyone uses on that mantle move is a flexing time-bomb. It is reccomened
>that people now carry a
>long sling, and they clip themselves into the new bolt and do the mantle,
>then reach back and unclip.
>Its a bit like a via-ferrata.
>
>And regarding Venom, I have belayed several eurpeons on this route recently
>who don't have
>additional trad gear, they just clip the fixed mank and climb it as a
>sport route. So, to them its a sport
>route! (as is Snake Flake, Invisible Fist & Mr Josh with the fixed stuff
>in-situ!)
>
>These addional bolts were installed to stop a likely accident from less
>experianced belayers being
>forced to get to and from the belay stances. Many cimbing accidents happen
>when people are soloing
>or 'scrambling'.
>
>I knew these bolts had the potential to be controversial, but I feel happy
>to see they have been used
>by heaps of people in the month since i installed them.
You need a few wires and cams to climb at Taipan. Please can we keep it that way.
(don’t like the Venom ledge bolts, don’t like the justifications put forward)
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