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General Climbing Discussion

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Removing bolts to create trad paradise 7-May-2007 At 9:44:18 AM ithomas

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The Ikara/Rosea comparison is actually pretty appropriate. Both cliffs are big on atmosphere, lines and possibilities; if you have the bottle. Keith Bell and I put up a couple of routes there (Telstar and Caladan) and in the process had a great time trying other lines, walking in and generally feeling pretty pleased with our lot. On Telstar, which is rather committing to say the least, we placed no bolts. On Caladan we placed no bolts even though there was an un-nerving runout from the last good nut to the belay ledge and a huge block from which to rap back down. Subsequently Damien Jones placed a bolt before the ledge and someone else fixed some bolts and a chain at the abseil point. No one asked Keith or me what we thought. Our answer would have been - bugger off, leave your bolts at home.
Shiny new bolts seem everywhere already. I know that sport climbing is a different game with different rules but it seems to me that sport climbers get their way every time. I think it would be totally appropriate for Rosea, Ikara, Frog Buttress, Frew's Flutes and a small number of other iconic cliffs to remain totally boltless as a reminder of what was and as inspiration for what can be. Is that too much to ask in a xsport mad world?