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General Climbing Discussion

Author

crack climbs

Bonnie

6-Aug-2006
4:01:09 PM

hi,
i've always had a lot of difficulty with crack climbing...i haven't been climbing for too long and i was just wondering if anyone had any tips regarding techniques??
~bonnie

Fish Boy

6-Aug-2006
4:20:30 PM

Only climb offwidths.

Bonnie

6-Aug-2006
5:36:48 PM

um ok, but how do i get better at them>like i pump out lots...

Darrren

6-Aug-2006
7:16:41 PM

Your a crusher

Just be gentle, dont let go and keep climbing


Organ Pipe

6-Aug-2006
7:23:05 PM

Hi Bonnie,

Paddy Pallin sell a climbing DVD called "Return 2 Sender" parts of which screened at their recent "Banff Film Festival".

It features some really good technical sections that explain and demonstrate some really funky jams and holds. Amazing to learn about.

Check it out at: http://www.return2sendermovie.com

Good luck : )


Organ Pipe

6-Aug-2006
7:26:25 PM

Dammit!

I just watched the trailer on the website above and now all I want to do is go climbing : (


Diablo

6-Aug-2006
7:33:26 PM

bolder lots bon,
the more you climb the better you get.

all you need to do is practice, i'll stick you on some crack climbs on our september trip to araps, so you can get some cracks done.

Just stick it out, and try your best.

the stronger you get, the easier it is to Not pump out.

~Ryan


freesolo

6-Aug-2006
8:05:06 PM

if you are going to araps, you can have someone lead meglomania (on mari buttress) and put up a top rope. there are bolts to the right at the top.

technique is everything.

practice your foot technique first!!! then worry about your hands. if your forearms are getting pumped, your doing it wrong.

cracks work your back and shoulders, not your hands so the next day your torso should be stiff.

your feet are going to hurt, so just get ready, as your technique improves they will hurt less.


Sabu

6-Aug-2006
8:46:03 PM

i'm assuming you know how to jam. if not then buy one of the many climbing books being sold that give details on how to do all the jams.

next it's just practice, find very low grade cracks that don't really require serious jamming and just practice using them, find out what works best and eventually being able to trust the jams you make.

Practice makes perfect and there is no other way!

hope that helps!
Sabu

-deano-

6-Aug-2006
9:27:44 PM

if you pump out lots, then you might be pressing your fingers too hard on the inside of the crack. just relax and be gentle. slip your hand in the crack, dont shove it. all the meat in the jam is between the back of your hand and the ball of your thumb. if there is a nice little feature inside the crack then by all means, use it. but trust the jam! it's like learning to trust your feet, i guess.


gordoste

6-Aug-2006
10:00:39 PM

i heard a rumour that megalomaniac was sandbagged in the guide


DT

7-Aug-2006
7:23:44 AM

Once you've done the first few moves meglomaniac is fine. As the old shepherd guide says the bottom is a bit naughty.


Phil Box

7-Aug-2006
8:33:30 AM

I'd also suggest buying yourself a set of those hand jammies from Pinnacle Sports. That or making yourself some tape gloves. This will increse the friction on your hands and you'll then be able to think more about your feet. It truely is about the feet. Don't stretch yourself out on a crack. Bunch your feet up closer to your hands and you'll find that things will begin to come together.

Darrren

7-Aug-2006
10:25:41 AM

>Bunch your feet up closer to your hands and you'll find that things will
>begin to come together.

Dude dont sand bag you know as well as i do that that is called laybacking and that is death in large quantities...

Just plug and chug

Make noises like a train and you will be able to climb anything

drdeviousii

7-Aug-2006
10:46:39 AM

WTF?? dude what cracks have you been climbing?? hands & feet are nearly always closer together when jamBing, especially when compared to face climbing. Jambs are more secure when they are head/shoulder level. Phil's not sandabgging here!!


Paulie

7-Aug-2006
10:50:47 AM

Sabu's advice is very good.

Additionally I would recommend spending some time on granite such as Mt Buffalo. This will teach you how to crack climb better than any book on the subject. So saying there's some good short stuff at Araps too.

It is perhaps the hardest technique to learn (which is why you don't see any sport climbers at Buffalo!) but once you do learn it, you'll be jambing and locking in on everything you can!

If you're interested in learning more, the VCC often hold trips to Buffalo where you can do some great crack pitches on which you have to jamb (eg., Wicked Solitare 17) or join some of the Albury climbers (send me a PM) as we go up every weekend once the snow melts.

Paul


B.A. Baracus

7-Aug-2006
5:11:46 PM

Bonnie, plenty of great advice from all. Not a master myself, but crack climbing is one of my favorite climbing subdisciplines. Here are some things that helped me:

- crack gloves (After using these for a while you may not even need them except on the harshest granite).
- growing accustomed to pain (for real).
- developing efficient jams (Solid feet, solid hands. The kind of jams you can rest and place gear on).
- Starting with the easiest jam size, perfect hands (this jam only requires a slight flex of the thumb to engage solidly). If your on top-rope or seconding, try to move rhythmically. Try for laps on a crack you have mastered.
- Find some crazy bastard crack fiend to drag you up cracks you wouldn't lead.


BigMike

7-Aug-2006
5:36:26 PM

Shoe choice can help.

If the crack is fairly wide and you're getting most of your foot in there, a firmer (esp board-lasted) shoe is the go for stopping your foot getting as squashed as it does in an unlined shoe ...

Learn to tape the back of your hands and don't take sh*t from anyone who mocks you about it, because it really really helps.


adski

7-Aug-2006
6:32:56 PM

On 7/08/2006 littlebignuts wrote:
>Not a master myself, but crack climbing is one of my favorite climbing subdisciplines

I expect crack masters to be at least slightly interested in discipline as a weekend recreation


Phil Box

9-Aug-2006
10:35:18 AM

Try climbing cracks barefoot, it is a liberating experience and not as bad as it sounds. I'll see if I can dig up a pic.

There are 33 messages in this topic.