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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Bolting Lore

Peacey
7-Apr-2006
9:32:56 AM
Hi all,
I'm looking for someone to teach me the safety and basics of placing bolts on a new route/replacing old carrots, at this stage I'm looking to replace some old carrots on a route with some P-bolts. But am not all that sure about where to go to gain the skill and knowledge required to do so without mistakes. I would love to be able to learn how to bolt new routes, as I have a few that I would love to create!

Cheers

Tristan

mousey
7-Apr-2006
9:55:04 AM
just use a big f*koff angle grinder and put a #2 crack straight up the middle of your line, then you can sport climb but be a trad hardman at the same time!

if you're in vic i suppose neilo's the one to talk to

nmonteith
7-Apr-2006
9:58:14 AM
If you live in Victoria I can give you a few tips. I presume you have read the info on the SCVwebsite in
detail?
http://www.safercliffs.org

Peacey
7-Apr-2006
9:59:43 AM
Yep I live in Victoria, and the angle grinder tip above is a bit silly, when there are blasting tubes up the middle fo the climb LOL

nmonteith
7-Apr-2006
10:05:22 AM
Take a look in the Safer Victoria Forums as well - best to ask questions about bolting in that forum.
There is LOTS of previous information to read before taking drill to rock.

Hawkman
7-Apr-2006
10:08:29 AM
here is a list of more reading material for you to browse as well

http://www.climbinganchors.com/Literature.htm

simey
7-Apr-2006
10:51:42 AM
On 7/04/2006 Peacey wrote:
>I would love to be able to learn how to bolt new routes, as I have a few that I would love to create!

Just make sure any 'new' routes are going to be worthwhile additions before you whack bolts in them.

Things to consider...

- Is it contrived?
- Does it affect or detract from neighbouring routes?
- Will it visibly affect or detract from the natural environment?
- Can it be easily top-roped (will bolting it make it that much better?)
- Is it just a filler-in? (Why bolt a very average route at a crag which might already have hundreds of great routes).

I've put up a few routes that were pretty bloody ordinary, but my reputation for putting up crap new routes is nowhere near as bad as some of the other users of Chockstone.

You don't want to join that club.




There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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