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General Climbing Discussion

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The Dragon

Chester

19-Oct-2004
8:26:09 AM

You'll have to forgive my ignorance. However I was really impressed to read in the latest Rock that Pat Turner has completed a long term (all natural pro) 32 project.

So what I'm keen to know is, what are the hardest trad routes in Aus and abroad, and also was this route done placing all gear on lead. If so, that is unbelievable!!

Thanks

deadpoint

19-Oct-2004
9:17:46 AM

Piece of pre-placed gear in upper RHS of photo ???

Nick Kaz

19-Oct-2004
9:24:50 AM

On 19/10/2004 deadpoint wrote:
>Piece of pre-placed gear in upper RHS of photo ???

The gear looked like it was under tension to me, so I suspected it belonged to another route or the photographer.

climbau

19-Oct-2004
9:31:50 AM

On 19/10/2004 deadpoint wrote:
>Piece of pre-placed gear in upper RHS of photo ???
From the photo it looked to me as tho that piece belonged to anotha route as I was under the impression that Pat was traversing left away from the piece(under tension, Photog?).

Breezy

19-Oct-2004
10:54:30 AM

- what are the hardest trad routes in Aus and abroad -

End of the Affair in UK would be up there.

Whistling Kite at Frog i guess is one of Australia's hardest.

There is a 5.14a/b gear route in the dolomites, although for memory the FA was done with pre placed gear though i could be wrong.

phil box

19-Oct-2004
12:07:28 PM

Speaking of Whistling Kite and other hard Frog Routes. They have been getting some attention of late. Glen Foley and Cameron Fairbairn have been working the Kite. Duncan Steele and Grant Edser have been working the Trousers (Brown Corduroy Trousers 28). Grant is all but there on the Trousers. How`s Your Calluses (29 I think) has been worked into submission by Glen too. Duncan and Glen were due to go do The Lost Boys on Mt. Warning 580 metres grade 23 but Glen got sick at the last minute so that will have to wait for next year now that the season is just about over for that north facing wall.

BoaredOfTheRings

19-Oct-2004
12:21:17 PM

Mr Natural, at the piles.
Runners put in on abseil though.

benjo

19-Oct-2004
1:32:34 PM

ive read on a new zealand site that derik thatcher climbed mr natural about 3 weeks ago.
it says he did it puting the gear in.immpresive!

Dave C

19-Oct-2004
6:08:05 PM

On 19/10/2004 Breezy wrote:

>End of the Affair in UK would be up there.

Bit of an old classic now, only E8 (only? ha!) I think it's only about F7b+/c (26/7?) technically.
Better candidates would be Parthian Shot (E9 7a - 30 with crap gear) or more likely Equilibrium (E10 7a/b - 31/2 with so-so gear), both on gritstone at Burbage South.
You can throw in two of the routes that Toby Benham repeated, Sole Doubt (E9) at Froggatt and The Zone (E9) at Curbar, both 29-ish with pretty worthless pro.
Then there's stuff like Indian Face (E9) up on Snowdon, still rarely repeated after 18 years.
The list goes on!

James

19-Oct-2004
7:07:21 PM

Whilsling Kite has a bunch of bolts on it so I'm not sure it counts as 'trad'. the 'Trousers would be one of the harder Frog classics (28, zero fixed gear). obviously there's other stuff round, HBs 30 at Buffalo is mostly trad (1 bolt).

BoaredOfTheRings

20-Oct-2004
12:30:23 AM

Swcharzniger (or how ever the hell you spell it!) at shady, still awaits a second ascent, and welcome to barbados. same FA

shiltz

20-Oct-2004
8:24:29 AM

Welcome to Barbados would have to be up there. Has anyone repeated it?
What is the gear route at the right hand end of Sandinista called?
The Great Shark Hunt at Buffalo is mainly trad. What about Cobwebs?

tmarsh

20-Oct-2004
8:58:34 AM

HB has repeated it, I think. First and second ascents! Chris Jones
was trying it a couple of years ago during a spell when he was really
firing. Dunno if he did it though.

tim

Syd Huxley

20-Oct-2004
10:20:44 AM

trad routes with bolts dont count as complete trad routes their still trady though i guess.
journey thruogh nicaraguer is that thing on sandanista ithink its meant to be 30.
ben heason UK flashed(?) it after raping in and putting all the gear in.a bit shady.

phil_nev

20-Oct-2004
11:22:13 AM

Benjo, i saw derek (NZ) working Mr natural around 2-3 weeks ago, he was looking pretty strong, so i wouldnt be suprised if he did it. Duno about placing all the gear though.

shaggy

20-Oct-2004
11:49:23 AM

Yeah, I was up there a couple of weeks ago to just miss the repeat of Mr Natural, I do belive it was on pre placed gear, nether the less, it's an impressive climb regardless

There are 16 messages in this topic.