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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 1-Jun-2018 At 1:47:33 PM gfdonc
On 1-Jun-2018 kieranl wrote:

>What you're describing suggests that these sleeve bolts aren't correctly
>installed. Sleeve bolts should be installed with the hanger fitted around
>the sleeve, not with the top of the sleeve flush with the rock surface.

Says who?
There was a fair bit of debate among a few bolters I know about this issue a while ago, with no firm consensus.
I'm interested in more facts if you can add. Pros and cons that I recall were:
Pro: Sleeve deeper in the hole is generally a good idea. More rock surface/depth engaged.
Pro: Sleeve flush with the rock generally avoids 'spinners' as the hanger is being tightened against the rock surface.
Con: sleeve inside the hanger means the bolt-to-hanger connection is stronger
Pro: generally bolts are made assuming the sleeve is flush, meaning (depending on the bolt) when you tighten a bolt that has the sleeve inside the hanger, you have a few mm of extra thread protruding above the nut. This can then be tall enough to push a gate open, which is generally accepted to be a bad thing.

There may be a couple of other 'cons' I've forgotten.

Hilti are generally considered expert in this field. Installation on their web site shows the sleeve component flush with the rock/concrete surface, or even recessed slightly. (There's a chart on their web site, for example, that mandates a sleeve recess of 2mm to 8mm depending on the bolt - but never protruding!)

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