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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 15-May-2018 At 9:11:33 AM gfdonc
On 15-May-2018 FatBoy wrote:
>If I can quickly weigh in on Dreamtime. I might sound like a hypocrite,
>but I have less of an issue here (bush camping and driving around the gate
>issues aside) than Rosea. It's only ever accessed by climbers, it would
>barely work as a crag without the bolts, and like Spurt wall and The Ravine)
>fills a niche of climbing within the Gramps. I just don't want it everywhere.

I find myself agreeing with FatBoy. (I'll try not to make a habit of it).
& I also commend Wendy for her comments regarding Joe and crag development.

>Rosea by contrast is ON the Grampians Peaks Trail and when finished will
>be visible by many thousands more non climbers per year.

Not really. The Peaks trail will go over the top of it. Climbers will not be seen and mostly not heard.

>Which is why the suggestion of per-crag ethics become an important factor
>in any solution. I'm happy for some areas to be sport areas - the less
>frequented by other park users the better, mind you - but in return I want
>some areas to have a completely different ethic (i.e a decent area or three
>of 100% no-fixed gear). I just can't subscribe to a "one rule for every
>crag" ethos.

I think the real underlying issue is of sport crag development. Which echoes the "per-crag" sentiment.
I'm not fussed (and I don't think Kieran was) about a single bolt here or there. Less so if it replaces old fixed gear or provides an environmentally sound benefit (prevent erosion, getting rid of tat). The "Victorian Ethic" in my view has been about using bolts sparingly.

I see Wendy's earlier comment about lower-offs spaced 3m apart and it also rings (huh) of sport-climbing ethos.

Currently, most crags in Central Grampians are basically 'trad'. There are a few exceptions.
I would like to see some consensus before anyone develops any new sports crag - no, wait, it's the Internet, consensus is unlikely. Never mind.

SO curiously, the very north end of Rosea (called "The Far Right" by some) HAS been redeveloped as a sports crag. (And: who noticed?)
Unlike the rest of the cliffline, there's not much opportunity for natural pro there.

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