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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 3:14:36 PM gfdonc
On 7-May-2018 armstp wrote:
>This isnít only in relation to bolt for peg exchanges but includes abseil
>anchors. It would be a shame for a great adventure cliff like Rosea to
>go the way of Arapiles with abseil escape anchors 2 or 3 pitches up on
>multi pitch routes because the rest of the route isnít as good [many routes
>left of the staircase fit this category, and a number to the right].

You raise an interesting point (I'll opt to ignore Neil's inflammatory comment above).
The left end of Rosea, as far as I know, lacks any descent anchors. I don't think it needs any. The routes are spread out far and wide, and access via the top track works OK in many cases (though if you've left your gear at the bottom of Raw Prawn you're in for a long walk to get it back).
On the other hand the anchors at the top of P3 of Mug's Alley (shh! don't tell Neil) have reinvigorated that area as the rock above isn't worthwhile and several good routes finish at that ledge.
I expect by the description that anyone doing Spelio Pinnacle (haven't done it myself) would appreciate a better way of getting off than downclimbing the last pitch, but in this case it sounds like part of the adventure (and well described).
I've recently been carrying a short length of rope and a mallion 'in case', but I don't think leaving tat behind is a better answer than placing anchors.

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