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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Moving to Melbourne: gear
GJH
9-Jul-2016
9:56:12 AM
Hi all,
I am Moving to Melbourne from the UK at the beginning of September, I am looking for some advice:
It is likely to be nearing Christmas by the time that the majority of my stuff arrives, is there enough bouldering and sport nearby or am i better off bringing at least a small trad rack?
I am having a bit of trouble working out which routes are sport and which trad as i am so used to having different grading systems.
Advice as to who to talk to and where to go would be appreciated.
I usually climb about
F5 to F6a+ sport
VS to E1 Trad
depending on how out of practice i am.
Gareth
Ariel
9-Jul-2016
10:07:49 AM
Don't come to Melbourne expecting much easy sport climbing. There's very little sports climbing under about F6B+ in Victoria at all. There's plenty of bouldering in the Grampians though, as well as a few problems scattered around the local crags.

I'd definitely bring a small trad rack. Even just a half-dozen slings and a set of nuts, with doubles in the small-medium sizes, will allow you to get up a lot of the easier climbs at Araps.

Check out the "guide" section on this site, as well as taking a look at thecrag.com. Should give you a basic idea of what's around near Melbourne.
dalai
9-Jul-2016
10:31:17 AM
On 9/07/2016 Ariel wrote:
>Don't come to Melbourne expecting much easy sport climbing. There's very
>little sports climbing under about F6B+ in Victoria at all. Should give you a basic idea of what's around near Melbourne.

Back wall at Camel's is probably the most easy sport locally to Melbourne. Very little as you say.

ChuckNorris
9-Jul-2016
2:49:39 PM
I'd say you're better off taking the bare minimum - booties, harness, chalk bag, belay device in sept and waiting for the lot in December. You'd need to find people to climb with who won't need your gear and if they begrudge you a month or two of using their rack on a few trips I wouldn't want to climb with them.
Jayford4321
9-Jul-2016
7:35:02 PM
On 9/07/2016 GJH wrote:
>Advice as to who to talk to and where to go would be appreciated.
My fiend Eduardo is Ur go2 man 4 saga advice, or if Ur really in2 sage advice U could try simey as he is known as the 1 who wrote the book.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9-Jul-2016
11:55:14 PM
You won't need any trad gear, as gnagutS should have finished retro grid bolting Victoria by the time you arrive
Jayford4321
10-Jul-2016
7:34:59 AM
Gotta work on NT 1st my fiend.
barney800
10-Jul-2016
3:38:59 PM
I was in the same situation a few years back. If you're pressed for space in your luggage and enjoy bouldering then you could just bring shoes and explore the awesome bouldering in the Grampians while you wait for you gear to arrive. Ask around at Northside and Lactic Factory (the two bouldering gyms in town) and you shouldn't have much trouble finding people to go with. I might even see you there!

Also, most of the good climbing in Victoria is three or more hour's drive from Melbourne so people tend to go for the weekend. Camping gear could be a more useful thing to bring than climbing gear.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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