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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

2-Jul-2016 At 9:15:28 AM Wendy

Message

On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>I haven't changed much of what I do, because nothing particularly useful
>has been invented in the 20 years I've been climbing.
>
>-Daisy chains/pas things are for uni-club goobers, and always have been
>
>-All the jizzing on about rigging belays has been going forever, and nothing
>has changed. If anything, I take less care with equalisation (now that
>its been proven not to work), and more care with not falling back onto
>the belay (but I never did factor 2 much anyway). Just do whatever you
>do faster and with less faff, simple!
>
>-Grigri, atc, whatever. If my partner sucks and spends half the day hanging
>on the rope, I wish I brought an autolock. If they are awesome and stroll
>everything, I wish I brought the atc. There is no right answer.
>
>-The main trick I've learned is to look better than you are by having
>shit wired. I used to see hardmen (e.g. Fants and Mikl) fly up hardish
>things without resting, getting the gear right first time every time. My
>response at the time was "gee, I wish I had the skills to read routes that
>quickly"......now I know, just climb the bloody thing twenty times, put
>the #3 wire in the same spot you always put the #3 wire.
>
>-Comfort and convenience makes you go soft. Eventually we'll all go soft,
>but I try to sleep in the dirt and do uncomfortable things to delay the
>inevitable.
>

Damo, shouldn't you be toughening yourself up in the remote Kimberly right now not pissing on on Chockstone from central heating at home? Actually, you are getting are food drop. You are soft. Real walkers carry all their own stuff :).

You should try a cinch. It is the right answer. Easy to feed if the climber is cruising, easy to hold if they are dogging.

The climbing world is already full of talentless, non gaycentric derogatory term climbers. Has been for years. Professional (or at least good and practical) instruction doesn't change that. What it does change is providing people with a basis of skills and grounds for developing judgement far more efficiently than the bumble through approach.