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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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29-Jun-2016 At 11:49:05 AM Wendy

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I'm a mixed bag of stuck in my ways and every modern thing I can get.

I love the EDK and use it almost exclusively. I'll chuck a second one if the rope are different sizes although in practice I haven't seen them slip other than an initial tightening.

I almost never use a back up on a simple abseil. I'll chuck one on if I have to faff with gear or the rope or I"m not sure where to find the next rap point. Ill use whatever is going - a normal prussic, a french or a klemheist depending on what length sling or prussic I have available. They all work fine if you adjust them to the right length to not ride up into your belay device.

The extended belay device/PAS or daisy chain combo is great on long multipitch raps. Easy back up, clip in, easy control of device, even further out of the way for hair/clothes etc to get stuck in. Despite its advantages, I don't both with it the rest of the time because I feel perfectly safe on a normal set up.

I really don't like PAS type things for trad climbing. I see people tending to clip into just one bit of gear with them and also to have them loose so you would shock load them if you fell onto them. I use the rope. It's already there, quick, easy, adjustable, dynamic. They have some use sport climbing (if you actually equalise them to both bolts) for quick clip in and re thread but I still don't bother. Quickdraws or slings do the job just fine as well. Who wants to have something extra wrapped around their waist or between their legs anyway?

Cordelettes are great if you are leading through. I use them for guiding or any time when I am the only leader. Quick, equalised belay with a single clip in point that every one can go straight into (with their rope not a bloody PAS!), no need for changing ends or rearranging belay. If I am swapping leads, I will just use the rope. Less to carry and generally more flexible than a cordellete.

The 2 changes I made many years ago now is that I belay a second from the anchor whenever possible and a use an auto locking device almost exclusively. I hate it when situations such as low anchors mean that I have to belay off my harness. I use a reverso type device for double ropes and a cinch for single ropes. I lead belay single ropes all the time with a cinch as well. Reasons - a mixture of safety, comfort, ease of initiating rescue or assistance measures, convenience.

Lightweight gear! I love modern gear. Completely worth replacing my heavy old stuff from 1991. And linkcams. They rock. A triple set of them has replaced my camalots. I know almost everyone else thinks they are dodgy - but I have been using them for more than 5 years now with no failures and definitely no Monteith like cam explosions. They just need to be placed such that there is no potential for torque on the lobes and extended when necessary to avoid them walking.

I learnt in the time honoured dodgy fashion of uni clubs and random people met at crags and like most of us was lucky to survive a range of stupid ideas, poor judgements and general lack of any skills whatsoever long enough to be actually competent. SInce then I have been a massive fan of beginners getting a good solid grounding in the basics, taking their time progressing in order to build up skills and strength and develop enough judgement so that when they do start climbing with randoms they can assess whether the person is a good choice of climbing partner or not. The idea that we all survived it and everyone should have that experience belongs with other "when I was a lad" type ideas. Modern instruction strategies are great and dramatically reduce the number of people dong dumb things at the crag.

Cafes and comfortable accomodation! I am glad I can afford these luxuries now and then. Dirt bagging was fun at the time but my middle age appreciates comfort and convenience.