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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Fully sick bolt wars at Araps |
25-May-2016 At 5:28:09 PM |
Wendy
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Message |
On 25/05/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 24/05/2016 simey wrote:
>>I must admit that I still find this saga pretty weird. I still think
>that
>>Wendy's actions of retro-bolting a long forgotten route have more validity
>>than those who have removed her bolts. If the bolt pullers had shown
>some
>>initiative and climbed the route and extolled its virtues before Wendy
>>arrived on the scene, then it would be a different story, but they didn't.
>
>Nope, this lame logic could be applied all over the mount to retrobolt
>worthless routes which should just be left to the moss. What I don't get
>is why Wendy felt the need to retro this route, but not Copyright Direct
>which seems to have exactly the same gear situation (bouldery unprotected
>start followed by hard to place fiddley stuff). Why does every route have
>to be approachable ground up by a leader maxing at the grade? Is there
>a lack of good safe 25s at Araps?
Um, because I knew other people had done Copyright Direct in the last 30 years? Because it didn't have existing fixed gear? And because I didn't have the first ascentionist saying he would like the route made more friendly?
I am not going around making every route approachable ground up by a leader maxing at the grade. I won't be going near any routes established ground up, getting repeats in their current condition and/or that the first ascentionist is passionate about keeping in their existing state. I have merely tried to make an obscure route something that people might actually climb and the most contentious thing I appear to have done is not protect a previously unprotected start but replace a piece of existing fixed gear.
Is there a lack of bold 25s at the mount either?
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