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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 11-May-2016 At 8:48:20 AM simey
Message
On 10/05/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>I think the whole approach of route by route "fixing" is outdated and unworkable
>for Araps. What I would like to see is a discussion between all the ethical
>factions in Nati with a view to establishing a long term "whole cliff view"
>as to how the place is going to look in the future.

I actually think that route by route "fixing" does work. If someone oversteps the mark, then there is the chance to say so and remove the bolts. Every climb at Arapiles has a different set of considerations with regard what is reasonable/unreasonable with potential bolting. A "whole cliff view" doesn't allow for the myriad of climbs and climbing styles that take place at Arapiles.

>I know it's your local area and after-work lap training facility, but
>it is also Australia's premier crag and a special place for climbers from
>all around the world. You guys have the keys to paradise, but with that
>comes the responsibility to not trash the joint.
>Please, The Mount is not being improved by all the stupid bolted variants,
>linkups, squeeze routes, contrived sport lines, and "popularizing" of crap
>routes via the marvel of retrobolting.

I totally agree with you on this. My pet hate are new routes of very average quality that require a disproportionate number of bolts. Not every piece of rock needs to be climbed nor have a line of bolts up it.

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