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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 9-May-2016 At 3:16:56 PM simey
Message
On 9/05/2016 Macciza wrote:
>Wow what weird ethics you people have down there ....
>
>I just did a route up here that similarly probably hasn't seen an ascent
>in quite a while..
>Managed to 'fudge' (whatever that actually means) gear in on abseil, head
>point it and finally lead it placing the gear.
>I wrote to the FA explaining that on modern gear the bolts are not needed
>and whether he would mind them being removed. Have since decided they can
>probably be left but the route should not be retrobolted because it's been
>retro-tradded... It's now a classic test piece!
>You's sure do things different down there ...

Mate, if you had to rap the route first to see what gear it takes prior to leading it, then you have already sold out. Fcuk I hate rap-inspected ascents claiming to be improved style. Same goes for this bullshit ascent at Arapiles of Master Blaster. If you want to make a statement about ethics/bolting/blah-blah then go ground-up or go home.


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