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14-Jun-2004 7:00:40 PM
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Bolts and belay anchors on Finger Sighs (22) and Heaven Seven Eleven (24) are not safe. Please stay off these climbs until further notice. The glue holding these bolts was not mixed properly and thus these bolts could pull out un-expectantly. All other routes on this wall including 20th Century Fox are safe. Please spread the word. The bad bolts will be replaced within the week.
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17-Jun-2004 11:58:46 AM
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Out of interest - what went wrong and what glue was it?
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17-Jun-2004 12:23:22 PM
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matchsticks and uhu glue
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17-Jun-2004 12:44:45 PM
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Hilti HY150 glue. The thin plastic sleeve which holds the two seperate parts ruptured un-knowingly (after glue gun was dropped) and leaked one part glue (thus not delivering proper mix). Test bag and nozzle results showed glue had not cured correctly.
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17-Jun-2004 1:57:54 PM
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Which shows why you must always squeeze off a sample of the glue before you start bolting. In
the past, I've glued a couple of rocks together at the base of the route, but SCV's practice of
putting it in a ziplock bag and taking it with you is a bit better, especially if you're bolting on the
last day of a trip.
I've always been tempted to make an indestructable cairn using glue leftovers.
tim
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21-Jun-2004 9:31:14 AM
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All problem bolts have been fixed over the weekend. The rain and hail was fun - as was the muddy drive.
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30-Jun-2004 6:12:09 PM
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Good work , team ! --- hopefully there are no moisture / wet air issues associated with glue-ing in the wet conditions...
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