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As a Monument to Climbing


Phil S

9-Aug-2012
12:31:24 PM

Reading through the Toe Cutter Gang/Mt York retro-bolting thread, a thought occurred to me. If we were each allowed - as a monument or as a decoration - in our own back yard, a perfect reproduction of just one route... What would you choose?

I would choose a route from the Bluies. Mine would not be a full trad route. It would not necessarily be a route that I have done or, perhaps would ever even want to do. It WOULD be a route that inspires me, that speaks of dedication, commitment and self-control. It would evoke respect and awe toward the first ascendant and the culture that supported him or her at the time. Mine would be a route that other climbers might recognize and be equally inspired by. It would be a sublimely beautiful piece of rock.

For me, Age of Reason fitted all of those parameters. But now it is scared either by extra bolts or by the remnants of extra bolts (assuming this whole episode is not a giant troll, I haven't been out there to see for myself). This makes me sad.

Also contending would be Psycholdrama, Oranges Porranges (as seen from Bald Head) and Shimmering - I'm sure many others will come to mind.

If zoning restrictions confined the size of my rock to a boulder it would still be a problem that has a measure of seriousness - Pete's Arete would do nicely

What route would you like in your back yard?
NB: it is not the only piece of rock in the world - you still get to visit all your favourite crags.

climberman

9-Aug-2012
12:56:47 PM

I'd have all of Hanging Rock and the adjoining mainland.


BlankSlab

9-Aug-2012
1:12:56 PM

Im thinking The Fear. Mostly because i think its an iconic route that i will probably never get to climb.

pecheur

9-Aug-2012
1:15:43 PM

The Nose for me ...


Macciza

9-Aug-2012
1:16:07 PM

Love it - Phil. Beautiful concept, thanks . . .

Mine would be DogFace, I reckon . . .
Or my 200m Fully trad (0 bolts) route in the Grose . . .

If it's a boulder it would have to be big and bold
Don't want no short dick boulderers at my place


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Aug-2012
1:28:54 PM

Balls Pyramid for me.

hero

9-Aug-2012
1:31:20 PM

Macroderma.

I need someplace to stash doorknocking religious nuts.

One Day Hero

9-Aug-2012
1:33:21 PM

On 9/08/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Balls Pyramid for me.

Big 'tasteful' water feature in the back yard, eh? Sounds like the sort of thing you'd get in a suburban greek mansion........you gonna get some pillars out the front too?


climbau

9-Aug-2012
1:34:21 PM

There is cool looking wall that is seen from the Bells Line on the road side of the Grose. Between Pierces and Bell. Kinda like a reverse wave (convex?) that looks absolutely awesome.
unfortunately no iconick routes on it that I know of, just an inspiring bit of rock.


climbau

9-Aug-2012
1:46:57 PM

On 9/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 9/08/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>Balls Pyramid for me.
>
>Big 'tasteful' water feature in the back yard, eh? Sounds like the sort
>of thing you'd get in a suburban greek mansion........you gonna get some
>pillars out the front too?

I believe the pillars are being installed at the entryway to Mt Buffalo NP. The Acropolis in the sky


MisterGribble

9-Aug-2012
2:19:10 PM

Dramp


Phil S

9-Aug-2012
2:30:07 PM

Add to my short list:
- Serpentine
- Totem Pole

How cool would a Tote be in ya back yard?!

Olbert

9-Aug-2012
2:47:27 PM

On 9/08/2012 Phil S wrote:
>Add to my short list:
>- Serpentine
>- Totem Pole
>
>How cool would a Tote be in ya back yard?!

I'de advise against a water-feature - you have no idea the effort that requires to keep clean


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Aug-2012
2:48:34 PM

On 9/08/2012 climbau wrote:
>On 9/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>On 9/08/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>>Balls Pyramid for me.
>>
>>Big 'tasteful' water feature in the back yard, eh? Sounds like the sort
>>of thing you'd get in a suburban greek mansion........you gonna get some
>>pillars out the front too?
>
>I believe the pillars are being installed at the entryway to Mt Buffalo
>NP. The Acropolis in the sky

~> & close enough to be in my frontyard already ODH!
Wotsa matta eh? Gotta yu no respek? Itza nica plac-
☻

martym

9-Aug-2012
3:29:11 PM

definitely one of those black problems you set that I never finished, Phil... or one of the white crimpy ones that seem to have disappeared from the middle over hanging wall.


Phil S

9-Aug-2012
4:03:18 PM

>On 9/08/2012 Olbert wrote:
>I'de advise against a water-feature - you have no idea the effort that requires to keep clean

Yeah but I could feed the neighbors puppies to the seals. They'd be such loyal seals.


Phil S

9-Aug-2012
4:03:56 PM

Umm Marty - you need to get out more!

martym

9-Aug-2012
4:07:24 PM

On 9/08/2012 Phil S wrote:
>Umm Marty - you need to get out more!

With a 3 month old baby, not gonna happen any time soon - we're lucky if we get to visit you guys once a week!

lfranklin

9-Aug-2012
5:25:25 PM

Oceanoid for me. That way I would have a reason for not doing any work in the backyard. Just like every time I go to Araps I always find a reason not to climb it. Though I probably have a good reason now. Just fat and unfit!


E. Wells

9-Aug-2012
5:58:40 PM

Age of reason is as it always was. Rage this season (the direct start to join exhibition wall) has been bolted.
I would say me and my mates last new route in the bungles which when you arrive at the corner a few pitches up which looks so good from across the valley and find out its fused for 15mtrs and the face is crumbling choss with no gear besides rubbish r.p (it needs a bolt or four but we are too lazy) ....I would say thats average and doesnt require balls or ingenuity, just luck and stupidity....I would say thats last on my list. hence no documentation.

There are really so many fine routes out there in all disciplines.....I havent scratched the surface. My backyards pretty darn nice though.

There are 31 messages in this topic.