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Most over/undergraded crags 3-May-2011 At 2:58:14 PM phil_nev

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On 3/05/2011 ademmert wrote:
>On 3/05/2011 shiltz wrote:
>>I remember on my first trip to Nowra thinking the grades were pretty
>stiff
>>compared to equivalents at Arapiles. This was in the 18-22 region.
>I
>>put it down to them being bolted at the time assuming the Arapiles routes
>>factored in the extra time to place gear. Probably has more to do with
>>the climbers involved.
>>
>>I think Grampians grades (prepare for a huge generalization here) are
>>a bit easier than Arapiles in the 20-25 range. Anyone agree? Compare
>>Soweto and Comic Relief for example. I'm sure there are just as many
>contrary
>>examples but that's been my overall impression over the years. No idea
>>why it would end up this way as the same people were often involved in
>>grading.
>
>Agree and not just in that grade range

The problem is though, you just can't compare them. The style of the routes must be taken in account... and perhaps the araps routes feel harder because of that special araps slopey bum groping style that a lot of climbers these days just arn't as good at (For whatever reason)

Most harder routes at araps involve the famous "bum pulling" (Punks, cobwebs, ethiopia, to name a few) with the ocasional mingin' edge route thown in for good measure (LOTR, Zorlac, RSI)...

Compare these to the harder routes in the grampians (Flower Power, Samosa, Grrove Train), its completly different. More pumpers, harder moves, smaller holds and a style that is perhaps less reliant on body position (like a lot of araps routes) and more reliant on power & endurance, things readily available to modern climbers through gyms etc... Thats why i think perhaps those grampians routes feel a tad easier, more in a style that we have gotten used to.

Regardless, most of the araps routes are crap neways so it dosnt really matter.

My 2c.